C.

Edwin

copied by A.S.B. begun nov 52 cont after '53

Wanted
Boats
Life preservers
Photo supplies
Rubber goods
Tents etc
Hardware
Cook supplies
Groceries
Medicines
Instruments
Personal outfit
Ammunition &c
Freights ($100, 100, 50. =$250.00
Transfer to River-$350.00
" of men-$350.00

Supplies for 2d Colo. River Survey

3 Boats 22' X 4'6" Extra oars-paddles &c.

Lines-3-250

Straps for boats

3 large sponges

6 fastenings for boat seats.

12 Life preservers

3 " Rings

PHOTOGRAPH SUPPLIES.
2 6X8 Albion Cameras
4 extra Front Boards.
1 Extra Tripod. 1 Detective Camera 12-6X8 best rolls.
12 " "--"
12 4"--" C & H 1-8X10 W A Lense
6 Ground glass
1 yd Ruby cloth
1 sole leather case
1-dark tent
1-dark lantern Davis 12 cans for Rolls
24 " " "
12 " " "
Soldering outfit & S 1-Extra Roll Holder
24 " Reels
1 extra rubber slide Exp to G R

(blank 4.

Rubber Goods

Tents &c

Hardware-(see bill)

Cook's supplies (see bill)

Groceries (see bill)

Medicines " "

Instruments

Ammunition

Note Books & Paper
Stamped envelopes.

Prospecting Pick &c Pan.

8. Blank

c.

Personal Outfit.

Blanket X Straps

Pellets. 10.

Medicines

Bryonia Arsenicum Aconite Ipecac Veratorium Camphor Lauduum Pulsatilla Belladonna Sepia Podifilum Caprum Spongia Hepar Sul. Nux Murcurius

Wanted at Peach Springs

Photo negatives sent from Peach Springs -
Can No.7 262 to 281 " 8 282-304 " 9 262-304 " 10 305-329 " 11 330-351 " "12 305-351 " 13 352-370 " 14 371-394 " 15 395-417 " 16 371-418 " 17 419-438 " 18 419-451 " 19 452-475 " 20 452-489 " 21 490-509 " 22 510-526 " 23 690-530

GRAND CANYON OF THE COLORADO RIVER.

Camp No. 68 8 miles (abt) below the mouth of the Colorado Chiquito

Barometer & thermometer Record
6 A.M. noon 6 P.M. 27.70 27.80 27.80 36 46 44

Fleecy clouds and Sunshine.

We were much surprised and pleased last evening to meet Mr. Felix Lantear an old miner, prospecting in this country.

He is going in a few days to Flagstaff and will take out mail Photos &c.

Taking up our line from the bend opposite the large side Canyon that comes in on the left-after passing the immense iron dike the formation is thin layers of sand stone in broken ridges but low. These ridges extend to side canyon that comes in on right. In this sand stone 3-10' opens(ings)and 80' span at side canyon-beyond the water way of this side canyon the point of gravel & sand rock s comes out very far thus

Drawing

This point must be cut heavy so as to get good alignment to strike the slope on the next stretch.

From this cut for over a mile to point where river turns x a sharp to the right the alignment is a tangent along a slope & low bluffs of the same thin startified sand stone, with five 10 ft. opens, (openings)

At 2:30 we run 203 with ease plenty of water.

At 2:33 we reach and run 204 a long shallow gravel rapid which at higher water would be simply good swift running-and at 2:30 we are thro it-3/4 of a mile below & go into camp No. 69 to complete my notes to send out by Lantear.

CAMP. No. 69

The cook Hogue and I go up on hill to Photograph-

Photo No. 264

396 E-3-1 up river Z showing red sand stone cliff of thin strata around the 3 P.M. point referred to on previous page.

3.15 P.M. -No. 265 NW-3-2 across 397 the river showing the marble castle in the distance.

No.266 W-5-2 down 398 river showing the Grand canyon above the narrow gorge. Showing the entrance to the narrow g. on left--

No. 267 S-2-2 old Indian 399

Fort on this point

19. Blanks.

Mr. Felix Lantear the miner who has taken out our mail spent last evening with us.

He told me a great deal about this mineral country we are now in.

He has located many claims one near Powell's Volcanic Dike which he sayd is 150 ft. wide of gold, silver & copper.

Samples of this he gave me

The immense iron dike opposite the big side canyon he says assays $5 in silver $2 in gold and from 12 to 18% iron.

This deposit covers nearly the larger part of this basin-

I have samples.

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C. 24

27.80 27 80 27 70 30 50 41

Clear all day with a few fleecy clouds.

The point last referred to in yesterday's notes, is an easy curve 4 to 5 and then to a gravel hill in all abt a mile at end of wh is side wash 40' span-beyond this mile of low bluff 10 to 40 high.

Then the same stratified red sand stone 100 to 150' bluffs-with good flat bench of rock at bottom to make bank upon continues to point where river makes curve to left, caused by large wash coming in on Rt.

In this stretch there would be 2-40' & 1-10 opens.

Our line would not follow river around this left bend but would cross flat & hog back formed by the side wash on right.

See sketch ahead.

We break camp & start at 8:10 A.M. at 8:30 we reach & run Rap. 205 without stopping. Quite hi waves & I get one all over me. Rather a cool bath so early in the morning.

At 8:27 we reach and run without stopping Rapid No. 206. And at 8:30 stop at head of Rap. 207 on left bank. And spend 3/4 hour examining it & 208-3/4 m. further on.

207 is formed by shelves of sand stone dipping up & across and making a complete fall with square blocks of stone at foot of fall.

208 is formed by round boulder coming out from the wash on the right. It is very rough intwaves and full 3/4 mile long but I think has plenty of water.

At 9:15 we row across stream to Rt bank & unload for a portage of 207.

Photo from hill in center of bend 268-400 N.-3 D up river 269-401 E-3 1 to Rap. 207. * 270 402 S 3 down river 270 both on gelatine roll 2 on A.M. roll spoilt.

Full page sketch on p. 26.

The cook and I go up on the hill to take Photos. McDonald Hislop, Gibson & Ballard, drop the boats down, while the rest of the men portage the supplies.

All are at the lower end at 11:05 & we reload.

All loaded at 11:30 and we stop for lunch.

Start at 1:00 P.M. Run 208 & 209 & stop at 1:07 at 210

This is a sudden drop of abt 8 ft. over a reef of boulders & compells a portage. Only short 200 ft. We go ahead abt. mile & take Photo 271-403 E-3-1 from head 145 P.M. of narrow gorge up river. 272-404 W-4010 Gateway to the "Narrow Gorge". Portage is made and boats loaded and we start at 3:18 P.M. at 3:19 we run Rapid 211 and at 3:23 we enter the Great "Narrow Gorge" of The Grand Canyon.

The sketch on previous page shows the flat and gap behind the hogback where line should be located.

The side wash is a large one & should have at least a 100 ft span if not more on careful examination.

This carries our line notes to point where river enters the narrow groge marked "a" on Blue Print. That is to the " Narrow Gorge " There is about mile of the gorge to point where River turns square to Right-there is good slope with sandstone above much broken up.

No difficulty in this portion nothing more than rough hill side work.

Smoothe water for 1 to two ms. Stop to take Photos 273 & 274 at 3:30 P.M. 405 406

Start again at 3:45 P.M. 3:55 stop to examine Rapid 212 4:06 start & run it, good water but very quick time.

Smoothe water for one mile Stop at 4:13 to exam Rap. 213 Find it very long, shallow but very steep hence very swift & full of rocks, a good chan. seems to be thro it by dodging the rocks but there are so many of them, that I canclude not to venture, but to portage it, ease the boats thro with lines. We are all worn out by our two portages of today, and it is 4:30 P.M. We go into

Camp No. 70.

One mile down from last point noted two side washes come in on Rt. the sand stone is very much broken up 40' & 30' spans. The work is simply rock hill side work.

River then turns slightly to left and at this point we stop & take at 3:30 Photo

273 (405)-3 1 up river one mile in the "narrow girge" 274 (406-4-1 Down Do & start 3:45

The next stretch of nearly a mile has broad talus slope with high water only 20 ft.

See above pictures.

In this stretch one 30' span. Rap 212 formed by side wash 40' span.

Beyond this sand stone stands up in one point 150' hi. it juts into river & is easily cut.

This stretch to where river turns sharp to left is not at all bad work.

Slopes at ft. of cliff, points easy to cut. Work will compare in general to clear creek Canyon.

Some willows at this camp that have never been touched by frost.

Blank 32.

no 33 or 34

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27.60 27 27 30 38 68 62

Misty clouds but sun coming thro. Heavy wind later in evening.

Begin portage at 7:00 A.M. At 8:15 A.M. I take Photo 275 (407) E-502 from lower side of creek up River 276 (408) W-4-1 down River 1st one on Gel spoilt-took two

Portage of stuff was done at 9:00 A.M. McDonald sick.

We eased boats down by lines thro this long rapid over mile by 12:30 P.M. & went to lunch.

1:30 P.M. take

Photo 277 (409) N-2-2 L up

278 (410) W-2-2 L D. from left side of point turning to Rt. see Blue map.

Around this point is an easy curve

Talus below water, but bench easily cut for material.

We load & start at 2:05 P.M. and at 2:05 run a small Rapid No. 214. and at 2:10 P.M. turn point to Rt. and sail down thro a beautiful bay of quiet water for 1 to 2 ms. and stop at 2:20 on Left bk to examine Rap 215

We find it an immense & long rapid full of huge boulders both above & under water, and impossible to run at this stage of water as it is so broad there is no distinct channel [at Red Canyon (5/1917)]

We unload all boats. Drop No. 2 boat thro the rapid with lines-two men in to keep it off rocks along shore.

It goes down very well by lifting over some shallow places & worming around bet. the rocks, while men above keep a tight line on it all the time. It takes however a long time, and being all tired out with the long portage xx this morning-we cover up our supplies-for a storm is coming up & at 5:00 P.M. go into

Camp 71 just above the creek on left bank that forms this rapid.

Beyond this point good talus and sloping sides with high perpendic. cliff above, and rough points of the granite jutting out into the river, easily to make bank from talus to talus or from point to point. 2-water ways 1-20' & 1 30'-in 1st mile-more

Next mile (more) talus 60 to 80 ft. hi-broad-high water 20 ft to where creek comes in on left thro deposit of red colored earth

[Fine slope on left bank, beyond creek 600 ft. hi.]

The side Canyon on left that forms Rap. 215 is very beautiful pinnicled & buttressed and timbered far up at its head among the snow.

39. Blank.

27 50 27 50 27 55 58 62 60

It blew great guns all night last night. Today has been cloudy with occasional showers.

CAMP No. 71

I walked down river about a mile and high up on the ledge and had my first look down the Great Granite Gorge wh. commences abt. I mile below here.

It was the most wonderful & grand sight I have ever looked upon.

Will try to get to the same point tomorrow & photograph it.

Oppressively warm

Flies, millers, & moths flying about.

41. Blank

27 70 27 75 27 80 58 59 shade 54 78 sun

Cloudy-clear by noon-Spring (April) showers & sun in P.M.

Commences at 7:00 A.M. to make long portage by Rap. 215 & swing boats (easing) down by lines. Long & tedious, completed by 11:30 A.M.n Lunch.

Load and start 1:15 P.M.

Photos from just below side canyon on left at Rap. 215 Camp 71

11:30 a.m.

249 (411) E-201-L up river

280 (412) W-2-1-1 Rap. 215 up

281 (413) W-2-1-L Down showing just glimpse of the Black Granite gorge.

After rowing across river we stop at head of Rap. 216 which is abt. m. from head of 215

This is a very heavy fall on left bank with shallow boulder on Rt. bank.

We drop the loaded boats down part way on Rt. side, portage supplies & ease boats empty thro center part.

Load up and at 4:50 P.M. Run the lower half of this rapid which at its loest lowest end just enters between the two black granite walls of the

Great Granite Gorge

Photo 282 (414) W-5-2 R shows mouth of gorge from Rapid 216

We stop at 4:55 P.M. at head of Rap. 217 and take Photos in the granite. 283 (415) E-5-1 Up River

284 (416) N-501 Down River

At 5:05 we start and run Rap 217 pass thro a smoothe bay of water & at 5L10 P.M. run Rap "218 without stopping then thro about m. of smoothe water and Camp at head of Rap. 219 at 5:25

CAMP No. 72.

After coming round the point above Rap. 215 on broad slope of thin startified sand stone, then line would fill in heavy at head of rapid where it has cut out & blast channel in boulders to keep river from washing against back too heavy.

From this point one mile on good talus slope to head of Black Granite.

2-20' water ways-

From Commencement of the granite to Rap. 219 the walls of the Canyon are pinnicled & buttressed with points jutting in to the river but no perpendic. walls. The general slope is say 30 from perpendic. altho the points are more abrupt.

The work is much easier than the average work in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison

See Photo No 285 (417) & 286 (418)

Our Camp No.72 is on a little sand bar 2 or 300 yds above the head of Rap 219 We got into Camp late and at once all hands climbed up bet the craggs & gathered wood. Two or three good sized mesquite bushes gave us sufficient for a camp fire

& to cook a good supper & have plenty for breakfast.

The weather is very warm which is a great comfort & saves wood. c

The bar we are on would all be covered by 10 ft. more water.

27 80 27 90 27 90 50 55 48

Showery during night-Clear sunshine this morn. with a few flying clouds.

Canyon at Camp 72 not over 150 ft. wide at bottom. High water 50 ft. up. c

Break camp at 8:45 and at 8:50 stop at head of Rap. No.219. This rapid is formed by boulders from Creek on left and as the gorge is so narrow, it has had no chance to form bar but the river has washed the boulders down the Canyon, forming a bad rocky rapid mile long eiyh 3 or 4 ft. more water it would be easily run but at this stage the rocks are too near surface and so we conclude to let boats down loaded.

The granite walls, continue beyond the point where Photos 285 & 286 were taken, the same as 417 418 above-as far as I can see abt 2 mis. c

The granite stands up-if there is any strata to it-vertical or rather inclined up stream a little. It is craggy & in points, but broken back in rough, irregular benches-which in many places are covered with earth & grass.

The drainage down these cliffs does not show very large water ways-Probably 2-20' opens. in each mile wld. be sufficient.

Except at creeks, but none have come in on Rt. side so far.

[Pt of Photos 285 & 6] brackets RBS.S

417 418

There is not a perpendic. cliff of granite so far now for the two miles I can see ahead.

cont. from 47 At 3:30 we went into CAMP No. 73. about one mile below our Camp last night.

This rapid No.219 is I think the one Powell went thro Aug.14-69 "with 30 or 40' fall & 3 dams" We find the creek-the 1st & 3rd dam & the 30 or 40 ft fall perhaps, but the middle dam has changed. over-.

This rapid stops & a new rapid begins below our camp.

At a higher stage of water these two would be one & the present one below here wld. make the "3d dam"

Photo 287(419) E-3 1 up river

288(420) W-3 1 D" from camp No. 73.

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51 Blank

28.00 2 7.90 27.80 46 60 50

clear Breakfast at 6.00 A.M. but did not start early as all were worn out by yesterday's hard work

Loaded and set sail at 8.20 A.M.

Run rapid No. 220 at 8.21

and Rapid 220, second part, immediately after a fall of 10 ft., the sharpest drop we have gone over at any [time] on our trip. A sure fall as much as the volume of water can be.

We stop at 8.25, mile down, at head of Rapid No. 221 to examine it. Huge rocks but apparent clear chute in center. At 8.43 A.M. we run it. There is a very sudden drop of 8 or 10 ft. and huge waves. We go through safely but pitch and tumble in great shape. One wave is cut through by boat and as it breaks slaps me with great force on the right cheek, knocking me flat back on my seat. I was standing, holding on to the bow line

Stop at 8:45 to take Photos

289 (421) SE-3 2 up Rt

290 (422) NW-3 2 D "

at left bend of River 1 m. below Camp 72.

We also examine Rapid 222 & at 9:20 Run it.

We plunge thro the waves & I get 3 immense ones all over me so that I am drenched to the skin.

At 9:25 we run 223 without stopping-light waves but very swift.

We then enter quiet water which forbodes a great fall below.

At 9:30 we stop to take Photos about 1 mile below last at bend of River to Rt. 291 (423 SE-4-1 up Rt. 292 (424) NW-4-Down Rt

For the first mile from our last night's camp the Canyon walls are more craggy & buttressed than above. The points jut out into the river further & the washes between them are deeper & wider.

The points form benches above so they are easily cut-many of them are only 20 to 30 ft. above high water and the whole slope of the Canyon is as before abt 30 from perpendic. There wld be 2 Or 3-30 to 60 ft. soans but most of the washes-or rather crumbles for they show no evidence of water grass & greese wood-w o ld, be filled.

(would)

Start at 9:45 A.M. We restart after taking photos on a beautiful, quiet stream.

At 10:00 A.M. we stop on left bank opposite creek on right, and take photos, Nos. 293 and 294 (425) up r. (426) down.

After taking photos McDonald, Hislop and I climb up the granite slope up the little wash to top of Granite.

(sketch)

Found a beautiful cove as per sketch.

Wonderful place for sheep & goats.

C 56.

Railroad notes.

C 57 .

On Our trip up we found and sampled a very large vein of quartz which seems to be filled with fine ore. I have samples (some). This whole section is cut up by a large number of fine veins of Quartz, generally vertical but pitching in various directions and cut through by the river and side streams for 200 to 300 ft. deep.

To me it looks like a wonderful mineral field, entirely unexplored.

We lunch at 11:30 A.M. and at 12:35 set sail again.

At 12:40 we stop about mile down at head of Rapid 224 (Sockdologer)

This rapid is formed the same as 219, from side wash, and the boulders are all across the Canyon and washed down for mile. The rocks are so close to the surface that it is impossible to run it. But at this stage of water there is a good shore of boulders and broken granite on right side, making it comparatively easy to let the boats loaded down by lines. At a higher stage this would be impossible as there would be no foothold.

C. 58 .

One thing I note today on all these granite walls-Being broken up into crags and little valleys between, the valleys are full of grass, greasewood, cacti and mesquite bushes. So that, while the rocks are black and sombre, the whole picture is enlivened by the green colors.

And where one can get a glimpse of the red, grey and bright-colored sandstones above, the contrast is most beautiful.

Of course, the bright colors of the canyons above-Cataract, Glen and Marble, are wanting in the Granite, but the vegetation gives an appearance of usefulness, as in contrast to the utter barrenness of some portions of the sandstone country.

At 1:30 P.M. take Photos from head of Rap. 224 mile below last pictures.

295(427) SE-3-1 Rt. up River

296(428) NW-4-2 Rt Down "

On either side except on the sloping cliff where one could not stand & hold a line with any power & write 6 or 8 ft. more. water waves wold be at least 10 ft higher.

We think this is Powell's "75 or 80 ft. fall."

It is a regular incline & no fall.

About way down Boat No.1 swung out in current dipped her nose under water & filled & just then swing into x hore-where the cook & I were far ahead of the rest of the men on the gravel beach. We both at the same moment jumped into the River & caught her & held her till the other men came.

We bailed her out (will see wht. damage is done at camp tonight) No.2 & 3 came thro this portion all safe.

[No damage to goods in Boat No.1.]

The next stretch, from the gravel beach on for 200 ft. was very difficult. The current swift and large rocks close to shore.

In letting down Boat No.3, Hislop who had the front line, Made a mistake(?) and pulled her in the wrong chute. The men above could not hold her stern in (as Mac had not put out the extra 50 ft stern line as I had directed him to do) and the current caught her and swung her aound crossways of the rocks, with her bow over the little fall we were trying to get by. She turned way over and filled at once.

We at once went to unloading her. With a rope around his waist, Travers went out into the boat and passed out the beds, bags, etc. until he was so cold he could not stand. When he came in, & in the same way Ballard took his place The current was rushing over the boat & it is a wonder that all the bags were not swept away. They were hauled in from the boat by attaching the grapnell to each as the men lifted them out.

CAMP 74.

Several bags escaped & were caught by Gibson below with boat hook.

We lost-the cook's war sack-Nos. 18 & 20 of Prov. bags with 100 flour & some little stuff 1 shovel 1 bucket

We worked till 6 P.M. to get No.3 out but to no avail

And we had to give u for the night. Abt 8:00 P.M. we heard her move & found that the river was rising & the boat had moved off the rocks ahead into the holw below.

We worked at her for abt an hour but could do no good, & gave yo again till morning not expecting to see a piece of her there next day.

We drew No.1 & 2 up on the gravel beach in the little cove above and prepared for the night.

Our condition was not the pleasantest.

nov.52

All the blankets of No.3's crew soaked, all of No.1's partially so, hardly enough wood to cook coffee with & nothing but a huge pile of rocks to sleep among.

However we made the best of it. Every one was in a hopeful & good natured frame of mind.

We gathered some little drift wood sticks & a few bushes, dfrom up on the cliffs, had coffee and flap jacks for supper, and several pipes of tobacco, divided our dry blankets among all the men & lay down among & around the rocks to sleep.

It was a beautiful moon light night & by various turnings so as to make our bones fit the depressions in the rocks or by changing the pressure of a rock from the middle of the back to the middle of the stomach, we managed to get some sleep & quite an amount of rest.

63 Blank-

C 64.

28.80 48 68 56

The river raised abt a ft. last night and pushed the boat down off the rocks, where she was caught, into the hole below.

After abt two hours work we succeeded in getting her out, badly smashed on one side

We hauled her up upon the rocks. She is not beyond repair and McDonald, Travers & Edwards immediately went to work. (start)

Have concluded to cut her down to 18' 2" in length.

Work at boat all day, while rest of men sort over supplies & dry out all goods &c. I find we have 60 days supplies.

CAMP No.74.

Blank p. 65.

28 5 27 75 27 7 5 62 60

Cloudy-clear by 10 o'clock Camp No. 74

Hard at work on Boat No. 3.

Being obliged to stay here till our boat is done, the matter of wood to cook with is a very serious item.

We have gathered all the wood in reach, and today moved our cook & his outfit a quarter mile down river on another pile of rocks where there is a little more wood. To do this we have to climb to our meals up over a high cliff in one place holding on a rope.

Below this is some more drift wood and the men carry it up a little at a time for climbing along these Granite walls is no easy or very safe matter.

It is a good thing it has turned so much warmer as we can have no fire to sit by.

C. 68.

27 7 27 8 27 8 48 62 56

Camp 74 Misty clouds all day.

This morning I take two Photos from high point on cliff from center of Rap.224.

10 p.m.

297 SE-3 1' up R

298 NW-4 D R

About ten o'clock, as our boat repairs are progressing so well we let No. 2 boat down past where we had the disaster, and from that point at 11 A.M. Hislop, Kane & Gibson ran the lower half of this rapid with the empty boat and moored her ina cove mi. below.

This was so successfully done that after lunch we let No. 1 boat down to the same point on loaded her with nearly all our heavy loads(?) etc and the same crew ran her down to the same cove. The rest of the heavy goods will go down in the same way in No. 3 when she is done. And we shall carry our beds & small things to the cove whenethe boats are for although this is in the granite of the Grand Canyon it is even possible to walk along the sides by g a going up and down over the crags.

C. 68.

Friday Jan. 31st 1890

Cloudy-clea

C. 70.

27 27 27 5 48 68 56

Clear-Camp No.74

The river rose nearly a foot again last night-making in all from 2 to 3 ft. rise since last Wednesday. This endangers our boats in the cove below. And as we are almost on the last stick of wood to cook with, I consider it a necessity to push on the work on Boat No. 3 this Sunday.

So we all go to work determined to get away from here as quick as possible. It being proper in my opinion to work today under the present circumstances.

Blank page 69.

27 7 27 9 27 85 50 66 58

Clear all day.

We are hard at work again on Boat No. 3.

She is drawing towards completion, and I had hoped we would get off by noon but find it will be impossible.

The work on the boat is completed at 5 P.M. and a very satisfactory job it is. I think also it is quick work. Four men-38 hours work to cut this boat in two, take out 3' 10" put her otgether with nothing but the old stuff caulk her, and complete her ready for the water.

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27 1 28 28 5 52 68 58

Clear all day.

At 9:30 A.M. Boat No. 3 is finally completed & loaded and her own crew start her & run very successfully the lower half of Rapid 224 and come to anchor in the cove r mile below where the other two boats have been since Saturday.

I think it quite a triumph of our boat building skill in the Canyon to find our new boat boat is almost without a leak and rides the waves like a duck

She is easier to steer as she is onl abt 18 ft long & has 4' 11" beam

over

We take considerable time to load as we have to portage our stuff from the cook camp across a very rough cliff-and load the boats while they are swinging in the cove where they were tied several days since.

We started at 10:55 and are whisked around pretty lively in the whirl and eddies at the foot of this rapid, as the water dashes from one side to the other of the narrow canyon.

At 11:00 A.M. run Rapid 225 with out stopping (in one minute) and at once stop at head of 226 to examine.

& Photo

No. 299 11:10 A.M. S.E.

(431)

We start again at 11:20 and run 226, the heaviest rapid-the highest waves-we have ever run with the loaded boats.

From Rapid 224 to point where we take lunch at mouth of little creek coming in on left-the walls of the Canyon are of the same nature as above craggy & broken-and have considerable slope with benches.

This whole granite formation thus far is a very simple problem for sonstruction. It simply means cutting these craggs & side hill granite slopes with small fills between.

Some of the points will have to be cut heavy & some of the fills will be high, on acct of filling in the river and getting above high water (40 to 50 ft above low w. ) but these banks will be perfectly secure as they will be of solid granite.

from bottom of 79

At 11:30 we stop at head of 228 for Photos

300 2-SE-2 up-L.

432

301 3-NW-2 D-L.

302 2-N-1 across-L.

This point is at mouth of little creek on left abt 2 m. above large side Canyon on rt.

We start after lunch at 12:45 and at once run 228

At 12:47 we run 229 and

" 12:50 " " 230 and

" 12:53 stop at head of 231 which com ells a portage-creek Rt.

This is a fall of from 8 to 10 ft. but the vextends abt 100 ft. just at end of this is a huge hole & wave curling & breaking beyond it. Beyond this point the waves are very low & easy. All the fury is concentrated in 100 ft. & one wave

PERP. WALL

The nearest approach to a perpendicular granite wall is opposite where we lunched shown by Photo 302

It is not perpendicular but broken in little benches & thro the middle is a wash which breaks it up.

No where yet has there been a wall 200 ft. long & perpendicular 50' above high water.

When I see this from further on, & not opposite, it is not near so perpendicular as I thought it.

From the lunch point to Rap. 231 the sides of the Canyon are much more broken & sloping then above, & the points come out further into the river.

Two small streams come in on Rt requiring 50 to 100 ft spans, according to where (how high up) line is located.

over

We immediately go to work and ortage all our stuff abt. 160 ft. and swing the boats around the head of the rapid very successfully by 2:00 P.M.

There being a very small & bad eddy to load in we had to load one boat at a time & run her down it make room for the others.

My boat the 2nd to start, got off at 3:49 P.M. and at 3:45 stopped abt m. below to wait for other boats & take photos. 100 ft. above river.

303-E-3 0 1Rt up river 435

304-W-3 0 1 R down r. 436

Less than a mile above the Side Canyon ahead.

Rapid 231 is-think Powell's bad fall of Aug.14th.

The water thro here is full of whirlpools eddies, cross currents &c and fully justifies Powell's description at a higher stage of water. On leaving 231 we were whirled out of our course & driven against the cliff, but without damage,

From Rapid 231-abt m. to where Photo 303 & 304 are taken, the graniet is much more broken up than any part we have passed, & sloping more back.

The rock seems to be stratified standing on end in sharp jagged points-easily cut & handled.

The work would be cut & fill & plenty of room to fill without interfering with the river. The banks would be short but high. High water is abt 40 ft. From the point mile ahead (or less) to where side canyon comes in on Rt (Dont know what it is-) the granite looks like thick layers of slate standing on edge.

Along the river is a broad (100 ft.) flat ragged bench with good easy slope going back from it.

This Sec. for a mile to a m. & above & m. below seems to be a "secondary upheaval & entirely out of place with the dark granite above & the red granite below.

over

We were ready to start at 3:30 but as we have had a bad week of it with little fire & less comfort I concluded to camp here where there is plenty of mesquite wood.

McDonald & I start to explore the side canyon. It is a beautiful clear stream of running water abt. 6 ft. wide in a black & dark canyon of granite abt. 10 to 20 ft. wd. at bottom & sloping back to grey & darker sandstone above. On the South side of main canyon we get glimpse of the red flaming sand stone cliff above spoken of by Powell-but I have been much surprised that we can see so little of these upper cliffs, only a very few points are then visible since we entered the granite down to this place--

Taking this whole Sec. from the commencement of the granite to this side canyon the canyon is in two distinct parts.

The inner granite gorge wh. is from 100 to 250 (see Dutton) ft. wide at bottom, and sloping back in rough craggy slope to a height in the neighborhood of 1000 ft.

SEE DUTTON.

And the Second part above.

(SEE DUTTON)

Have been much surprised that we can see so little of this second upper part from the river. &c.

This whole break up-seems to be full of quartz veins we have some rich specimens of silver ore; but the veins seem much broken up & are in blotches thro granite.

38 46 56 50

Clear all day.

We had a good rest and sleep last night by quiet running water-quite a relief from the roar of 224 where we were obliged to sleep so long. Our camp was on a large sand beach with plenty of mesquite wood.

We were up at 5:15 & breakfast at 6:30 but it is hard to get started as we have such a trifling worthless fellow for a cook that we have to wait on him almost every time we move.

We start at 7:50 A.M. and in 2 min. run Rap. 232 a small one at the mouth of the Side canyon and stop to take Photos on left bank opposite the mouth.

305-N-5010L.

437 showing side canyon.

306 NW 3-1-L-down river

We start again at 8:18 A.M. & at 8:10 A.M. run rapid 233 & we land on left bank at 8:21 A.M. at head of Rapid 234 about a 6 ft. fall over a dam of boulders. This is a short rapid formed by boulders washed down from the side canyon we have just passed.

There is not enough water over the boulders to run it, except on Rt side & there the water pours over a sharp point of granite & makes it impossible there.

So we conclude to ease our boats loaded along this side among the boulders.

We drop one boats thro very successfully and are ready to start at 9:47 A.M.

At 9:51 A.M. we land again at head of Rap. 235

We find this is formed by a side canyon on Rt which comes in abt 200 ft. before the change of formation noted above.

This rapid has very large boulders and heavy waves for 100 ft. at its head. The lower part has a great fall & sharp waves but seems to be clear of rocks.

We make portage of stuff past head of rapid & ease biat down thro side chute bet.

The same bench and broken slope of slaty material continues for m. below the side canyon. Photo 306 (B.A. 100 ft. span.) 438 when the formation changes to a more compact/red granite also blue.

Rapid 235 is just at the change of formation from the baclk slate appearing granite on edge to the more massive Red granite below.

This red granite has less slope than the black above but for m. ahead has a flat slope at bottom running into river between the coves, with plenty of rough slope to get material from.

& from here-head of Rap 235, shows a high sloping talus for a short distance at extreme end where River turns to Rt. abt 3/4 to 1 m.

I notice that below this point High water mark does not appear so high-perhaps 30 ft.

over-

the rocks to a cove in the cliff (we take instantaneous picture of portage.)

At 11:35 A.M. All boats are in cove ready to start we pull out in order and strike the current just below the heavyest waves and go down like a shot thru the remainder of the rapid. The current beats against the Rt cliff & we are almost carried against the cliff the rebounding waves keep us off and we get in good line for the heavy waves at lower end-We strike them head on and go clear thro the heaviest & wave after wave breaks completely over our heads-we are thro in 1 minutes and at 11:40 A.M. we land on the slide rock talus noted above drenched thro, make a big fire and have

LUNCH

We restart at 1:10 P.M. and drop our loaded boats by 236 which abt 1000 ft below our lunch stop.

We restart at 2:15 P.M. and at 2:19 stop to examine Rap. 237 formed by side wash coming in from Left.

At 2:23 we run it. I got one wave in my lap but the rapid is free of rocks, at 2:26 we run Rap. 238 without stopping and have a couple of miles of smoothe water below.

At 2:31 we stop to take Photos

309 SE-4 1 L up

441

310 NW-4 1 L D

Restart 3:17 P.M.

The quiet water continues for 1 mi. ahead that is as far as we can see.

At 3:27 we run Rapid No. 239 a small one from side canyon on left.

And at 3:33 stop on Rt bank & take Photo s No 311

311 E-3-1 R up river about m. above mouth of the

BRIGHT ANGEL

From the last point noted above as difficult-the Rt wall for 3/4 to 1 mi. ahead is much more broken and better slopes, ragged and stepped back not at all difficult for such class of work, with occasuibakky a very steep cove that would have to be filled in the river.

This will be shown in Photos 309-& 310

441 442

The same broken slope contin. to m. beyond to where river s turns to left noted on blue map as at 3 P.M. [wrong] to left.

Around this bend/the granite is very much more broken & the slope much flatter several water ways 40 ft. span.

This work around this bend is easy hill side rock work One side wash 80' span. The narrow black groge seems to end as this bend to Left commences and the canyon becomes wider, and both sides break up considerably.

I am much surprised at this, and on examination find we have taken the

last photos at pt abt m. above the mouth of the Bright Angel Creek.

We find the large tier where Powell camped Aug.15th, the houses, mealing[?] stone pottery & c.

After taking Photo No 443 311

we start again at 4:12 P.M. & at 4:14 run Rap. 240 & in quick succession 4:16 & 4:17 run Nos. 241 & 242. And at 4:18 P.M. stop on left bank on large gravel bar covered with drift wood for

Camp No. 76

abt mile below mouth of the Bright Angel Creek.

This last mile run was very quick. Three Rapids with hardly any distance between them and it took some lively steering to follow their crooked course.

C.

After landing at Camp I take my boat-cross the river & Kane & I climb two hundred & fifty to 300 ft. on top of ridge which runs out on lower side of Bright Angel Creek for Photos as noted on next page.

We climbed up on river side of ridge.

First view of Bright Angel

Beautiful stream, clear water winding thro green meadow bottom &c.

Canyon of black granite with slopes covered with green bushes &c.

(2 pages ahead).

Photo's from top of Ridge "A" below Bright Angel Creek.

4:45 P.M.445

312-N-3-2-R looking up Bright a ngel.

444

313-E-4 1 R up River showing Shivas Temple

448 W 5 etc Down River/

446 view of Shiva's Temple from Camp No. 76, sun set

All these Rapids No.240-244 are formed by the boulders & gravel washed from the Bright Angel Creek.

p.100-
Drawing of River at Br. angel

(Bottom of drawing p.100

Photo 447 & 449

316 & 317

With distant cliffs above of grey & red standstone.

Climb to pinnacle of ridge find ruins of Cliff Dwellings 4 or 5 on very top mealing (?) stone pottery &c.

View up river gorgeous in color & grand in outline. Shiva's Temple on the left

5000 ft above the river of white grey sand stone Set on top of bright red ledge, which in the setting sun seemed as if in a blaze of fire.

X X X

Whole surrounding country above brilliant with color & grand in form.

Taking up R.R. line.

From point mile above Bright A ngel the line wld. not follow river around left bend past mouth of Creek. but would cut across-bridge the creek 150 ft. & tunnel point as shown in sketch.

This is the 1st & only tunnel so far in the Grand Canyon. Call it "A".

This whole break up is full of mineral . We passed yesterday evening the Great Vein that Jack Summer & Powell have said so much abt, it is abt 3/4 m. above Bright Angel on Rt side. I did not stop & test it for various reasons, best known to myself, but located it for future use.

From the General appearance I think this a very rich mineral section.

Bright Angel Creek is certainly a beautiful stream, etc.

Dark Canyon from beginning of granite to within one mile of the Bright Angel.

(Temp etc-

Clear-windy from S.W. Up at 5:30 Breakfast at 6:00 A.M.

Shiva's Temple bears N40 E from mouth of Bright Angel Creek.

7:30 A.M. Flat above Camp 76

Photo 447 up river

" 449 down river.

We load and start at 7:55 A.M. and at 7:57 run rapid No. 243

And at 7:58 run rapid No. 244.

And at 8 A.M. land at head of 245 and take photos.

450-up river m. below Rap. 244

mile further down Rt side at side canyon Rt.

451 side canyon on Rt.

451 side can. on left & sand stone cliffs beyond.

452 from same point down Riv. 8:30 A.M.

at 8:35 we set sail again and at once run Rap. 45

And at 8:39 land m. below at head of 246 on left bank.

This being full of rocks at lower end, we drop boats thro with lines . Directly opposite last Photo, just below side Canyon on left Take Photo 453 up River.

The rest of the men let the boats over Rap. 246 with lines by walking along the bench of the cliff 30 ft. above the water with the line while two men stay in boat (Hislop & Travers) & keep it off the cliff and as they get by point of cliff the men with the line come down on sand bar & let boat down over shallow gravel part of the rapid, while the two men get out into the water & lift boat over the higher rocks. All are down by 10:15 A.M. and the men warm & dry out by big fire.

After passing the tunnel as shown in sketch just below the Bright Angel, for mile the line has a smoothe hill side slope past Rap. 243.

From this point to where river turns sharp to left line along broken cliff of granite as above.

This is sharp turn of cliff to left & then to right-thus

Line would tunnel 300 to 400 ft. of Point "B"

Drawing

We are ready and start at 10:30 And at-run Rap. 247-10:34 And at 10:35 Rap. 248 and stop m. below on left bank to take Photos at 10:40

No. 454 up

Last view of Shiva's Temple 455 Taken at next point turn to Rt. from that noted on blue print as just below side canyon on left.

We start at 11:00 A.M. and at 11:08 stop on Rt bank to 3/4 m. below last stop at head of Rapid 249 to examine it.

It is the most powerful rapid we have met on the trip.

It falls abt 16 to 18 ft over huge pieces of angular & square boulder of rock fallen from the cliff & filled in by smaller boulders from small side creek on left. The fall itself is not over 250 ft. long but as the water drops over the rocks it makes holes behind then 6 or 8 ft. deep & dashes up rebounding waves 10 ft. high (2 instantanuous pictures.)

This section from one mi. above Bright Angel to 1 m. below is very much broken up and seems to be of a softer kind of granite more stratified & slaty & standing on edge like that of the Canyon 10 ms. up river.

All the rough clopes are fulled with soil and covered with grass and bushes, making a very pretty constrast of green with the black and grey granite rocks. This seems to be much more fertile than the granite Canyons of Colorado.

The inner Gorge is also so much broken down that the beautiful white, grey, red & flaming scarlet sand stone cliffs of the upper strata are plainly in view from the river, making a gorgeous & wonderful panorama.

Especially was what we suppose to be Shivas Temple brilliant on its flame colored base last night at sunset.

We at once unload everything and commence Portage of stuff (take from 12 noon to 1:00 P.M. for lunch.) and complete portage by 1:30 P.M.

On examination we conclude the Rt side is best to swing boats down, and so cross over again.

At 1:45 P.M. the line is straightened and No.1 boat is swung out into the stream, she rides the guge waves with ease and goes the full length without injury, the men & line work well and play out smoothly, but when she reaches the foot of the fall she seems like a young colt eager for a play.

She turns her nose out towards the current & as it strikes her she starts like a shot for the other side of the river. The men hold to her manfully & after crossing the current the turns and comes back into the eddy and for a few moments stands still just as a young colt ready for another prance. Soon she turns her nose slowly to the currebt again, and the men out their wills into arms and hold her once more. She does not cross the current, dips her bow under, as if trying her strength, comes up at

(to p. 111)

From (the) last side canyon on left for 1 ms to sharp turn to Rt ahead of where Photo 454 & 455 are taken the canyon walls are rough steep slopes, with points as above Bright Angel.

[Along here it is more broken & rough on left than on Rt.]

This same character of line continues for 3/4 m. further to Rapid 249 (formed by small creek on left) and for 1. to 1 miles beyond where river turns to left-on this last stetch there is a good deal of talus running out in points into the river & well above high water.

At 11:30 A.M. we take photos

456

324

457

from head of rapid 249 at little creek on left.

Photo 457 shows the talus

325

above referred to & extends about one mile down river just to point where bend commences.

Once, rises on a wave, and then as if for a final effort to gain her liberty dives her head under, fills with water and goes completely out of sight.

In a very few moments she rises, her whole deck above the surface, and as it were slowly & leisurely floats side wise across the eddy towards shroe and quietly stops alongside a shelving rock, seemingly well satisfied with her frolic & ready for a rest.

Kane ran ahead and caught her. She was bailed out & none the worse for the prance.

This difficulty made me decide to adopt Powell's plan-now that we had one boat below-and turn the boats loose at head of rapid & catch them below.

Blank pages 114 and 115.)

28

50

CLEAR.

We have breakfast this morning abt the usual time, 6:15 A.M. After breakfast I told everyone that it would be necessary for every one to throw away all useless stuff they had to make our loads lighter.

McDonald spoke up in an angry manner & said he would not. throw any of his private stuff to save the Co's property-that with all the men-5 in one boat & 6 in the other we would have to throw away so much provisions that we could never get to Peach Springs & would have to go out soon anyway, and for his part he would just as leave start out now from here

I simply answered-it was the privilege of every one to leave whenever they thought best. And the conversation ended.

I repack most of our provisions bags, and find we have 17 some some of them only half full with the two Photo sacks gives one boat 10 sacks & the other 9-& 4-grip sacks each.

Nothing more is said about loads, Everything is put in the boats that is necessary-and no provisions left. Our greatest difficulty is to carry the men.

We take Ballard in our boat to ride on the load in the center. Hislop has Hogue & Brown on center load & Twining in bow.

We get loaded at last and start at 9:45 A.M. McDonald in a bad humor and every one except Hislop & Hogue, immitating him because they seem to think the world will not move unless Mac starts it.

We are at last off & no one seems to put much force in their work, and the waves of the lower end of the rapid drive our boat ahainst the cliff Kane & I ward it off & we get by safely.

Hislop gets out all right. We stop 1/4 mile part this side wash on left side to take photo. at 9:55 A.M. abt 500 ft above side canyon on Rt. which forms small rapid 250

No.458

326

459

327

We restart at 10:10 A.M. and at 10:11 run rap. 250 1/3 mile further on we stop 10 min. to get the bacon out of the air tight locker of No.3 which we find floating in an eddy

We get six pieces-

On the 1 mile stretch from head of Rap.249 the wall is much broken up in large points and deeper reveins than before.

The talus before noted coming from these reveins.

In the stretch are 6 spans from 20 to 40 ft.

This stretch extends to side canyon coming in on Rt at commencement of bend to left.

This side canyon or-big wash out has no rapid-50 ft.span.

Beyond this as river turns to left the walls are very much broken up into sharp pinnacles & points o of stratified rock (granite) standing on edge.

Opposite Phot point 1/4 mile on from last side wash is side canyon 80' span.

This same class of formation continues around this long turn to left for one mile or so to pt. where river turns to Rt. 1/3 Half way down in small side stream 50' span.

At 10:15 we stop on Rt to look at Rap.251. and at 10:36 run it by cutting across the current & whirling completely round in the eddy. This is done to keep from following the current which drives with great force upon a low point of rocks that just out into the river on Rt side, & would be utter distruction if we followed it & struck the point.

At 10:42 we stop on left side at mouth of side canyon on left (no rapid) 3/4 way, to Pt to Rt.

460

328

461

329

Changed rolls.

We re-start at 11:17 A.M. We stop at head of Rap.252 ( mile past point side stream comes in on left & forms Rapid252) at 11:22 to examine.

And take photos

462

330

463

331

We pass point referred to above as turn to Rt at 11:20.

The walls are very much broken and very sloping.

We re-start & run rapid 252 at 11:43 A.M. in fine shape with our all crews. At 12 noon we stop one m. from last rapid at head of 253 formed by large side canyon large on left-and small one on Rt.

And lunch

From point just below side canyon I take photo

464

332

1:15 P.M. 465

333

Rap. 253 supposed Pt. Sublime at the top.

Rapid 253 compells a portage. It is made of immense boulders from this side canyon is abt 300' long of the fall & a drop of 12 to 15 ft.

We commence unloading at 1:15 P.M.

The whole canyon has changed since passing the first side canyon (on Rt) as noted this morning.

The granite is coming down lower and the canyon is widening out. The walls are very much more broken up, the rock is apparently stratified and standing on edge, this makes the points sharp & short.

The whole slope is much flatter, abt 40 from vertical, and benched back in broken benches, making construction very simple and easy.

The material will be easy to handle & hence cheaper than the stretch of solid rock above.

The side canyon and washes are more frequent, requiring a large number of bridges. I have only attempted to note those from 20 ft. up. Opp. Rap. 253 is side wash on Rt. opp large side canyon on left 60 to 80 ft. span.

At 2:15 take photo 334 down river to pt to Rt from bench at lower end of Rapid 253.

At 4:50 the portage is made, the boats let down by lines and loaded and we start once more.

At 4:51 we run Rapid 254 a long (m.) crooked rapid with many whirls & boils.

We stop at 4:00 P.M. on left side opposite big side canyon & take photos.

335
467 up river 336
468 up Rt side canyon 337
469 down river

we start at 4:15 and at once run rapid 255 & enter a beautiful bay of water-run about mile and land at head of rapid 256 at 4:25 P.M. and go into Camp No.78

Rapid formed by sude canyon on left.

From Rap. 253 to point where River turns sharp to right the Rt wall is almost all slide slopes, with ridges of rock bet.

The dist in 1 to 1 ms. in that dist. 2-20' to 30' spans.

Just before turning to Rt. are side canyons (wh. forms Rap. 255) coming in on both sides. (100' span.)

After leaving these two side canyons the river bends sharp to Rt. and the right side of the canyons can not be called a wall

It is a slope, in most places 30' to 40' from horizontal. Slides covered in blotches with earth and grass & small bushes-with small ridges of broken up & loose granite rising between this continues m. to Rap 256 & for m. beyond to Rt bend. These are the most astonishing canyon walls-easy Mt. slopes ahead and easy of construction.

Photo 471

339 tomorrow will show this clearly-up & down river.

340

472.

(from next page forward)

and green-for a foreground there rises above the dark sand stone bench-tier upon tier, bench upon bench & terrace upon terrace, stepping back further & further & higher and higher, and in their immensity of height and proportions seeming to tower almost over our heads.

First above the darker sandstone * * * * * rises sheer walls of red sand stone a thousand ft. or more with sloping mesas above covered with bushes & grass and above these a dozen or more smaller terraces of scarlet and flame color stone stained on many points with black and the little slopes bet(ween) then relieved by the bright green of the grass wood & bunch grass.

Above these rise for perhaps 200 ft. terrace upon terrace of the lighter grey, yellow and white sand stone ledges.

Capped by pinnacles and spire turrests and domes in every immaginable shape size and proportion.

With all the little slopes (from o 2 pages ahead-p. 129) covered with pine, cedar and pinon trees-their bright green standing out in bold relief against the light colored sandstone walls.

The canyon is growing more & more picturesque & beautiful the farther we proceed.

The granite has lost its awful and threatening look & slopes back in beautiful hillsides of varigated brown, grey & green.

Above this close to the river is a stratum (200 ft) of dark sandstone in sharp horizontal strata, standing in perpendicular walls jutting in perpendicular wall /out in points to the edge of the granite and beaded all over the with small points of the strata standing out in the air, and the top edge cut into small points & crevases, thro wh. the light shines, giving a rough saw toothed appearance.

At the side canyons and from the bends of the river the upper portions of the whole canyon are brought into view-showing the sandstone cliffs, benched back from 3 to 6 miles, and over a mile high.

As we sail along the smoothe stretches between the rapids each turn brings some wonderful picture more beautiful than the last.

28

43

Cloudy-clear by 10 o'clock

I slept really cold last night the first time this winter.

Photos From Camp 78 at side canyon left

470 338 up side canyon 471 339 472 340

We commenced to unload the boats & portage the stuff at 8 A.M. and swing the boats down by lines, all bein ready to reload by 9:30

We commence to reload but find that Boat No.1 has spring a leak in comming down se we have to pull her out on the rocks and repair her.

This takes 1 hours and we at last get started at 11:00 A.M.

Below the rapid is a beautiful sheet of still water which does not speak well for a long run without a bad rapid.

We stop 11:12 on left bank 1 to 2 ms. below last pictures & take photos. 473 474

We start again at 11:25 A.M. And at 11:35 stop at head of very long rocky rapid 257 We look at this and find it requires a portage at lower end, but we think we can let the loaded boats down by lines of the way.

At 12-noon we lunch at 1:00 P.M. commence to drop boats down. All down easily & safely we are loaded and start at 2:30 P.M.

From the point to right (as noted yesterday & wh. We pass at 11:00) the side of the canyon is rougher & badly split up into heavy points with washes between-but not deffi(cult) (3-30 spand) cult work-as the waste from these points can be thrwon into the river.

We have come abt 1 7frac12; ms. around this Rt bend or nearly 2 ms. from the side canyon-and the character of the slope is the same.

Abt. m. ahead is a side canyon on left-which undoubtedly forms a bad rapid.

The cliffsare the same as these for that distance to side can left and seem to continue the same for 2 miles ahead to where river turns to left.

This is the straight-almost N-course commencing 3 ms or so from McDonald's creek-at point just above this rapid 257, & is almost straight for 2 ms or so.

The sharp abrupt points continue down this stretch (2:45 P.M.)

This is not at all difficult work for rock work tho' it will be expensive, except to waste

At-take photos fr. side canyon 5 ms. 1:30-475

476 on above Shinomo creek/left

This is a most beautiful stretch of water-hardly a ripple for 2 to 3 ms.

We stop at 3:00 P.M. at the mouth of a large creek and as we wish to climb to Point Sublime on Monday, we go into Camp 79 on the beach just above the mouth of the Creek and at head of Rapid 258.

Photos from knoll at mouth of Creek.

477

478

479

This large creek Rt side of River.

a great deal in the river all the material on this straight stretch is the kind referred to before-Strata. Standing on edge and split up-Like course slate.

Abt every mile must be an opening-of 20 to 30 ' opening.

This same character of wall continues on to the large creek.

In that neighborhood the whole country is broken & up set & washed out as at the Bright Angel.

This large creek is quite a large side canyon, (not so big as Bright Angel) and the sides are very sloping.

Directly opposite this is also a side canyon apparently not running back so far- or it turns abruptly a short distance from the river (these two form rap.No.258)

Not less than 80' span for this large Creek.

Rapid 258 is a long-m.-shallow rapid formed by the boulders from these two creeks. The river here is quite wide-400 or more ft. So we shall portage everything & can easily let empty boats down with lines.

Blank pages 136-137

28 45 75 60

Clear sunshine

Camp 79-

We had breakfast at 9:00 A.M. and after breakfast I went down to where McDonald was sewing and had a talk with him.

I commenced by saying-"Mac I want to ask you a question, Have I ever asked you to do anything unreasonable?" He answered "No."

"Well then what has been the matter with you for some days-you have been in such an unpleasant humor? He answered with an oath "I, am tired of having two or three of us do all the work, while Twining & Brown stand around doing nothing"

I said "MacI know that but how can I help it, you know I would have discharged them both long ago if it had been possible, I know how hard it is but that is no reason why you should vent your spite against me & the boats." "I have nothing against you, Mr. Stanton, & I often say thi say things I am sorry for afterwards." "But Mac, it makes it very bad for you to be always threatening to leave & walk out."

He raised his head as quick as a flash and said, "By G-d I'd a good deal rather go out right here, and would have, hone out above, but I've agreed to go through."

Not believeing that it was the agreement that was troubling him but the money he would lose, I thought I'd test him, & said

"Well, Mac, if you feel that you want to go, I shall not hold you to your contract and if you leave from here I will give you a check for all I owe you tomorrow.

He bit at it as quick as a trout snaps a fly & said-

"The I'll go out from here." and then added more quietly, "I believe it will be best for the whole party for me to go, as long as these two men are here."

I concluded by saying "You understand I am not asking you to go-but if you want to go you shall have the check, and we part good friends."

"Oh, yes I understand that, and I'll go", was his reply.

I must add my own impression-

Two things enter into McDonald's determination to go out.

I know that the work is hard and that a great deal falls on Mac to do-but I am paying him extra wages for the work he is doing.

I am also aware of the utter worthlessness of the two men he mentions,

But-McDonald has been for years a hunter & trapper & prospector, going & working by fits & starts, as he saw fit-& this regular work, day after day week after week, for several months is too much for him & he is dissatisfied & makes Brown & Twining an excuse.

2d The rich quartz veins we have passed, are tempting him back-for he says he will only go out far enough to get a horse & outfit & come in to prospect.

So that his consideration for his contract was a 1 bosh & he would have left before, but for the money he would lose.

I do not know what the future has in store for the expedition but as I see it now, I am glad McDonald is going to leave.

Photos

480 R mouth of McDonald Creek 481 R side of canyon opposite McDonald Creek 482 R-runs of Indian village & cook. 483R, down from mile below McDonald.

Mac told me today that at one time he asked Twining to go in the water to help off boat & he put his tumb up to his nose and wagged his hand at him in derision.

Soon after T having the conversation with Mac I related it to Hislop. He was much surprised.

I find this evening that Mac has not told any one he is going to leave but only that he is going hunting.

28:50

41

Heavy wind

storm all day

This morning McDonald told the men that he was going to leave. Of course all are sorry. Hislop says he shall miss him in our work, that he is sorry he is going, but that we will get along without him.

Twining came to me very much disgruntled. Asked what were my intentions, was he to go out at Peach Springs &c. I said "yes".

And then he wanted to know why I had not let him know McD. was going from here, so he could go with him.

I told him-for the reason that I considered it almost impossible for him to walk out from here & I wished to take him to Diamond Creek where he could walk out.

He was very gruff & very sour & talked & acted like a fool.

Grand Canyon of the Colorado River.

Feb. 10th, 1890.

Received of Robt.B.Stanton check on State National Bank of Denver, for one hundred and ninety-seven ($197.00) dollars in full settlement of all claims of whatsoever nature against the said Robt.B.Stanton or The Denver, Colorado Canyon & Pacific Railroad.

H. McDonald.

I paid Mac off & bade him good bye in a pleasant manner-but while I am glad he is going- under all existing circumstances I feel he has violated all the pledges he has made me & broken all the faith & honor a man could break by desserting me and the party in this place & at this time, and that his conduct for the last week or two has been most shameful & dishonorable in the extreme.

Hislop, Kane & I

We start on our climb up the Canyon to see the top we start from Camp 7:50. Therm.50 Bar.27:80 Top is sandstone Mesa 1025 ft. 8:40 Photo from Pt above C. 484, 485, 486 486 from 2800 ft. above Colo. river. 487 from 3000 ft.

Midnight 28

Climb to top of granite 1st bench of sand stone 1025 ft. & take views.

Follow up slope; get on bench of marble & go long dist. to Rt towards river.

Climb along bench, Hislop climbs to backbone, cant get up.

Go back, far to left hand point. Climb along ledge then up & over a narrow divide.

Up thro a crack. Very difficult.

Start up a crack. H. & K. help me. Come to place they cant help me. Swing myself around point, whole body in air small toe and finger holds. Straight down below 800 to 1000 ft.

Blank p.150.

" p.151.

Pretty good rest-no water.

Climb up higher take photos.

Start down-must go down marble at head of creek.

Very steep-little pts to step & hold on.

Get near bottom-

Last jump-Hislop down.

Kane lets me down with strap in mid air.

After 30 hours find water, coffee &c.

Reach camp 6 P.M.

General impressions of upper Canyon.

blank p. 155. to 164.

45 58 48

Clear.

I understand that "Capt." Twining has been venting his grievances while we have been gone.

The men who staid in Camp Monday and Tuesday-portaged all our supplies to the foot of Rapid 258 fully m. fr. its head.

This morning at 7:00 A.M. we began to pack, carry beds & cook iutfit down-and let the boats down by lines-2 men in the boats are all down at 9:45 & we load up.

We are loaded, going quietly & carefully to work and start at 10:30 A.M.

At 10:50 we stop at head of Rap. 259 a bad rocky rapid formed by side wash on Rt, 1 ms. below, McDonald Cr. a worse rapid than last.

This requires a portage & we at once commence to unload on left bank.

11:45 take photo opposite 1st side Can. below McDonald Cr. 488

356

489

We take an hour for lunch-12 to 1 and at 1:45 P.M. both boats are both down (12 men in) and ready to load.

The walls of the inner Canyon from Creek at Camp 79 to next side Canyon on Rt. a dist. of 1 ms. are benched and broken as before.

Side canyon 50 ft. span-from this side canyon to next on Rt for mile same formation except that slope is flatter, XE regular hill side rock work.

From this point to where River turns sharp to right 2 miles below Camp 79 (Rapid 262) the walls are more abrupt in the points that just out into the river. The formation is of two kinds, the massive red granite & the black slaty kind

The red stand in bold points while the slaty material crumbles & washes away. These conss (?) can be easily filled with the material from the points.spans.

2-20'

This same formation continues to point where river turns Rt 4 ms. below D. Creek.

The latter half mile has broad & high sloping talus pieces of granite well above high water.

We are loaded and start at 2:15 P.M. and row across the current and land on left bank at head of Rap260.

This rapid is very steep & rocky at foot and a long curve to left, bringing current close to cliff on right at foot.

We examine it and at 2:35 let our loaded boats down by line which is completed by 3:35 P.M.

Hislop, Travers & myself climb over a high point of the cliff and down for m. and examine the next two rapids "261 & 262.

(See sketch on 2 pages ahead.)

We concluded we could run both of them at one e time as there was no water to stop in between them.

The situation was this-Rapid 261 was simply very heavy waves clear of rocks.

262 has 3 large rocks under water at "C" which formed the separation of the draw into the two channels around the immense rock nearly in center of River "E" 50'X50' & 20' high down stream & sloping into the water up stream. There were also 2 or 3 large rocks.

The Canyon has become much more narrow from a point 1 miles below camp 79 at Cr. The course of the river is very crooked & the outlook head is ahead is only a few 100 ft. but as this crooked course of the river is caused by these jutting cliffs, it will not cause a bad R.R. alignment.

These points must be cut. (20' to 50' th r o a few longer) and a very good alignment will be the result.

Above water in left channel at "G"

It was my opinion that the proper course was thro the left channel-but on acct of the rocks at "G" Hislop feared we might be dashed against them as we would be going so fast in that part of the rapid & he felt satisfied we could cut across to right channel (which had much lighter waves) after we passed 261 my fear was that we could not make this offing in time & we would be drawn on to the rocks under water at "C".

43 51 52

Very windy and clouding up from S.W. at 11 A.M. small shown (?) 3:45 P.M. snow on Mts & cold wind 5 P.M.

We were so tired after the work & excitement of yesterday that none of us woke early this morning. I woke at 6:45 A.M.

In the wreck yesterday the photo instrument, rolls & call went under water, I laid them all out past night & it took me some time to straighten them out this morn.

The instrument or lenses are not hurt. One roll no pictures on it was wet. The gelatine roll on wh. was the pictures I took on top Monday & Tuesday was only damp on the one exposed neg. The pictures on top & yesterdays work I believe safe. I cut them off and shall make special effort to save them.

Packing up & startinf was slow everyone was tired cut.

We start at 10:42 and at 10:44 run rapid No. 263, with high waves-2 in my lap, and at 10:45 cut into eddy and land on left bank just below head of rapid 263 and take photo-

490 N.E. up

491

358 (490 newer number) shows rock in cen. river where we had our accident yest'y.

We start again at 11:05 A.M. and our boat is caught in the whirlpools and turned round & round & drifts down in every shape-unmanagable till we get into quiet water below when we right up our course & row to the head of rapid 264 where we land at 11:10.

This rapid could be easily run except that the whole force of its current dashes against the ft (of) cliff which over hangs some 8 or 10 ft. (whole cliff 50 ft) in separate ledges

So we unload-portage the stuff abt 150 ft. drop the empty boats past head of rapid on Rt. side load & drop them 200 or 300 ft. further in eddy to a sand beach-and then take an hour from 12:50 to 1:20 P.M. for lunch .

We start at 1:33 P.M. and stop 1 m. below on left bank at 1:41 and take

Photo 494

362 up river

We start at 1:58 and row m. & cross to Rt side in swift current & land on sand beach at head of rapid No. 265 formed by side canyon on left. We at once begin to unload as this rapid is a terror & full of rocks.

The portage is over a granite slide of immense pieces of rock and is the very worse portage we have had to make on the whole river-tho not the longest

We load and start at 5 PM. and land one m. below at 5:10 at head of rapid 266 and go in to CAMP No. 81 on Rt. bank.

This has been a most wearing day on me-perhaps it is because I slept in wet clothes last night.

The granite around this last section is hard red and massive. This seems to have turned the river out of its general course & driven it in many courses.

This is one of the most difficult & expensive points for a line, on acct. of the massiveness of the rock but there is no engineering difficulty at all-only the matter of expense.

This (here) is the only evidence I can see of Powell's overhanging cliff. Small points that really do over hang 5 to 10 ft. and are 10 to 50ft long, generally slabs sticking out.

179 blank.

42 50 52

clear

Spent all morning in Camp 81 repairing Boat No. 2, drying beds re-assorting & packing provisions.

Lunch at 12 noon.

At 12:45 P.M. we begin to pack up, but takes some time as everything was unloaded. At 1:45 P.M. we begin & drop boats 500 to head of rapid 266.

This rapid is very rough & rocky, and at this stage of water can not be run. A drop of 10' to 12' in 300 ft. walls from 50 to 100 ft high.

At the head of it on Rt for 200 ft. there is no footing for portage, & for 600 ft. on left-so must let the boats down loaded.

Our camp tonight is just past the S.W. corner of Point Sublime.

1 ms. below Rapid 266. This rapid (266) is the worst one we have had to get around & over.

The rocks all over it are large & the force of the waves irresistable.

After getting over it's head as abv. described-we got into our boats in the most-to me-dismal & uncertain place we have ever set sail in.

The canyon is narrow, the walls come nearer being perpendicular than at any point we have passed it is getting dusk, and the sharp curve in the river to the Rt prevents seeing but a short distance ahead. The walls at the waters edge for 20 to 50' are vertical & cut' & polished in vertical seams. No wood, no landing place in sight. The roar of the rapid in our ears, and the huge waves of its lower half dashing in every direction forming whirls, eddys & back currents. Out into these we pull in anything but a pleasant frame of mind.

The massive red granite which forms the base of Powell's Plateau is the cause, I suppose, of the river making the sharp south course around this point. This-wherever I have n met it-stand up in more bold & sheer walls than the black, grey or slaty kinds.

The Southern part & especially the S.W. point-is the most difficult piece of R.R.line we have passed in the Grand Canyon. Difficult only in point of expense.

Blank 186.

N.B. Feb.23d .

In these notes of Friday & Sat reference is made to Powell's Plateau. This is not correct-the point I supposed to be not it-is Pt.Sublime. Shinomo Creek.

288 46 55 58

Clear.

Kane & I climb the cliff on left bank abt. m. & 250 ft. above the river to take Photos at 7:30 A.M.

No.497 up river shows granite point extreme S.W. point of Point Sublime is as difficult a piece of work (with one exception) as we have found in the Granite. (to Rap.266)

No. 498
366

We get back to camp & find boats loaded ready to start.

We sail at 8:10 A.M. & in 3 minutes stop on art bank to take photos 499
500

N-run on W side of Point Sublime from mile below Camp 82 wh.is shown in Photo No.367.

We start again at 8:33 on a stretch of two ms of clear water and at 8:45 land on Rt bank at head of Rap. 268 which is very sudden drop of 10 to 12 ft. and requires portage of all stuff & short portage of boats at the very head of the fall.

The men commence to unload at 9 A.M. & I take Photos 269
501
270
502 from head of Rap.268.

Rapid 267 is formed by side wash on left with small wash on Rt-20' overhead.

After passing around the S.W. corner of Point Sublime the character of the canyon walls changes very rapidly. Tha massive red granite gives way to a more broken mixture of red & black and slaty granite much broken up & for the 2 to 3 miles north stretch it has in most of the distance a fine talus and sloping hillside form-near theriver, while the higher portions are more abrupt. For the last m. of the stretch the formation is mostly of the "slaty" rock & the slopes continue up to the sandstone.

2 or 3 small streams come over the higher portions of the cliff which I think can be handled by 20' overheads.

From Rapid 268 for to 3/4 m. to a side canyon on Rt (50' span) is broad talus & very sloping banks-hardly looks like a canyon at all.

E-the main Colo. Canyon.

lime stone much broken with the massive red marble above it standing in sheer walls of 500 to 800 ft. Covered by the dozen little steps of flame colored sandstone, with the little benches bet. covered with scrub trees of green capped with the high points of grey yellow & white sandstone fringed with the thick growth of cedar & pine.

Down the river to the N.W. seems one massive wall a mile high stretched across the canyon as the river turns to the Rt as we get a broad side view of the same class of country described above. We pass the small canyon noted without a rapid but 1 m. beyond land at 11:00 A.M. at head of Rapid 269.

This rapid tho heavy co u ld be run but for two heavy rocks at ft. (is formed by two side canyons the larger on left.)

Begin to unload at 11:15 & swing boats down with 2 men in them in 25 mins. & in 15 minutes the more the whole stuff is portaged a distance of 450 feet. Lunch 11:50 A.M.

We begin to load at 12:50 P.M. at 1:00 take photos from center of rapid 269.

503
504 shows 2 miles.

The character of the slopes is shown by photos 369 & 370
501-502.

We start at 1:15 and run one mile and land on Rt bank at 1:20 P.M. at head of Rapid 270 which could be easier run if it had 4 or 5 ft. more water, but as it is it is too rocky.

We portaged all our stuff, beginning at 1:20 and shoot the boats over head of Rapid with 2 lines & are all safely down at 2:45.

This rapid has at least a 10 ft. drop so we-along here-ought to have nearly two miles of good water.

At 3:00 P.M. we are loaded and tow the boats thro the strong bank current of the eddy for 300 ft. and then set sail on smoothe water at 3:10 we run a small rapid No.271 and at 3:25 stop at head of Rapid No.212 and go into

CAMP No. 83 for Sunday.

199 Blank

47 62 60

Cloudy all day with south wind.

IN Camp No.83 resting on left bank at mouth of small side canyon. Most beautiful views from this camp both up and down for several miles each way. The long easy slopes of the inner gorge, covered with grass & grease wood bushes in their bright green spring coloring mingled with the shiney polished b black granite running down to the waters edge-with two or three rapids in sight and glassy lakes of still water between. The whole picture hemmed in at either and with mountains of flaming red capped with mowering pinacles of grey & yellow & the green fringe of the mountain pine & cedar interspersed with glimpses of snow.

2 P.M. take photo 505 506 507 373 374 375 from center of rapid No.272.

And to the west of our camp a most gorgeous & wonderful amphitheatre, Wonderful in the greatness of the dimensions and grandeur of its architectural proportions. Beautiful in the curious detail of the fin n ish and the blended colors of its frescoed alcoves and galleries.

(Hunt up architectural description.)

See Photo No. 376 (508)

28 52 74 58 Cloudy South wind Cloudy all day. A few sprinkles.

We began to break camp at 7:30 A.M. and by 8:30 everything is gathered up from our Sunday rest & portaged to lower end of rapid 272 which is not so very bad except that at this stage of water the rocks are so near the surface it would be utter destruction to attempe it. So we let boats down along shore with lines & skid them over one hard place 1st boat goes down in 30 minutes & 2d (No.1) in 15 minutes.

At 9:30 take photo No.376 (508) Amphitheatre up little side canyon

West of Camp 83.

It takes some extra time to load as we had all the lockers open. We are loaded and set sail at 9:53 A.M. and at 9:55 run rapid 273 a long but not difficult one & are thro it in 2 minutes- mile distance. I got one huge wave completely over me.

At 10:10 we stop 1 m. beyond where river first turns to left & take photo 509 (377) S.W. 510 511 mile further on (we walk) take photos at head of Rap.274 512 (380) 513 (381)

These two pictures show "Duttons Depot Grounds.) These grounds have perp. granite walls next to river so no room is lost, are semicircular in shape from 2 to 2 ms long.

One mile from our last night's camp river turns to right. To that point canyon walls same as those above-long sloping broken rock slides & points jutting up above the general slope and into the river.

For two miles further (abt N.20E) the first part is more abrupt but very much broken up into points and then the whole side of the canyon is broken back away from the river. (at point where river turns to left with long sweep.)

Forming a flat on top of the granite 50 to 60 ft. above low water & at just abut what grade ought to be (well above high water mark) from 200 to 300 ft. wide & from 1 to 2 miles in length of almost perfectly level country.

This is caused by the breaking away of the lime & sand stone above it and and can be graded to 400 ft wide with but little expense. (no 202)

After photos & looking over the Depot grounds we set sail again at 11:08 & at 11:12 land on left bank at head of Rap.274. nearly one mile beyond where River first turns to left.

This is a very short but rocky rapid but seemingly good channel to let boats down loaded on left side. We begin this work (one man in boat) at 11:20A.M.

Photo 382 (514) 383 (515) taken on left bank opposite Nos.380-381.

Rapid 274 is formed by creek on Rt. mile below the general break up of the granite as noted above-(from its position.)

1 milws (or so) below Rap. No.274, river turns sharp to left and narrow channel on Rt at turn.

At the turn to left the country is much more broken up than at any point we have passed. The granite slopes entirely out at the river but rises again m. beyond pretty abruptly to 150 ft. high on right, but with good easy line around it.

From this point on for 3/4 m. River runs abt west course.

This 3/4 m takes line to mouth of Shinomo Creek.

We start at 11:45 and at 11:50 after making turn to left, land for lunch.

Water again like a lake from 274 to & for m. beyond. Lunch. Noon Photo 516 (384)
517 (385) from lunch point 3/4 m. above Shinomo Creek-60 to 70 ft. above low water. And from the same place but 300 ft. above River. No.386 (518) up

At our lunch point-on the flat above river (60 to 70 ft) are the remains of a large village of (supposed) cliff dwellers. The walls of dozens of square houses, laid dry. One house this shape smoothe inside walls. Remnants of pottery, arrow heads &c

And further up on the slope numberous remains of houses under overhanging rocks & cliffs.

one under rock of this shape-with partition walls laid in mortar not more than 2 to 1 ft. high.

The whole hill side seems to be covered with these cave houses.

We start again at 3:22 and at 3:23 enter this long rapid 277, run one half mile of it stop in eddy on right and go into

Camp No.84.

1 ms. below Shinumo creek.

After urning around the point beyond Shinumo creek there is abt 600 to 800 feet of Lime Stone along the rivers edge as it turns again to the left.

The Railroad coming along the beautiful flat above Shinumo-would-in order to save distance, (have) some bad work at points beyond creek and to make much better alignment would tunnel both points at the creek, & perhaps have to cut the bed of the creek lower at the crossing in order to get water way sufficient.

See sketch on previous page.

High water bet. 25 & 30 ft.

4 P.M. take photo 1 mile below Shinumo creek 289 (521)-390 (522)

Beyond the lime stone point noted-the granite rises again in bold cliffs but not perpendicular.

See tomorrows notes.

Sketch of river beyond

Just above our camp 84 in the lime stone cliffs are a great number of cliff dwelling s ruins-with cemented graneries as at the

Nan-Co-Weap.

56 60 54

cloudy-Shown at 9:30 A.M. and all A.M. snow on top. Sprinkling late in even.

We load and start on the remainder of Rapid 277 at 7:58 A.M. In about 2 minutes we make mile and in coming around a very sharp turn in the rapid to the right No.1 boat kept a little too far to Rt. to avoid slide rock of boulders on left. Our boat was caught in small whirl & we were carried towards Rt. bank, all this time we were going down stream very fast. Our steersman Hislop, seeing two large rocks ahead (down stream) just under water with large wave breaking over & below them, shouted-pull hard for the shore-but it was too late. In a moment our bow (abt.3 ft. vack) was drifted on the first rock and keeled over down stream. I caught the life line on upper side & raised my left foot out ready to jump clear of the boat if she up-set, but the stern swing down stream & fell in the hole behind the rock and in doing so, threw Hislop overboard clear of the boat. At the same time the boat drifted loose & down the rapid stern first. Hislop was about 10 ft. ahead of us but held way up out of the water by his life (preserver.)

8:30 A.M. Photo391(523) 392 (524)

Taken 1 m. below last-391-shows long rapid 277 where Hislop was washed overboard.

cont. from p. 212

perservers. In a moment we had caught up with him & pulled him in to the boat. Just then No.2 passed us, & (T) threw Hislop an oar to steer with as he had lost his. All hands pulled their hardest to get out of the rapid and in a very short time (before we had gone 1000 ft. from where we struck,) we were safely landed in an eddy on Rt. bank, Boat No2. ca,e down safely but in trying to get into eddy run the top of her nose full force against a high rock. The only real danger, was in being carried over the next rapid No.278 which was abt 1000 ft. below where we landed & very swift water to the head of it.

The mistake was that when the boat got into its first position, instead of trying to pull into the big eddy, he should have backed water & turned her head down stream. He says it was his fault.

The general character of Canyon walls for 1 ms after leaving the short patch of limestone-granite, standing in bold cliffs-much broken into points and buttresses with large slides of debris between forming high talus slopes.

Good alignment & easy line by cutting these points & filling on the clopes between

We haul out boat No.1 & find one small hole near her bow where she first struck; easy to repair. We portage stuff by head of Rap. 278 while this is being done. And at let boats down the first short drop of 278 abt 6 ft & very rocky .

No.2 is floated down & let over the head of Rapid 278. At 10:30 No.1 is repaired & she is lowered successfully at 11:00 A.M. We load & start at foot of 278 at 11:20 and at 11:25 land one mile below on left bank & take Photo 525 (394) up

And at 11:40 we restart & at 11:40 run rapid 279 and at 11:42 run Rapid 280 both of them small & easy.

Lunch at 11:46 A.M.-3 ms below our last nights camp 1:20 P.M. Photo 527 (395) down 2 mile stretch. Photo 526 (526) up from opposite.

Lunch stand-1:30 P.M. Row across & take photo No. 396 P.M.

From last point noted to lunch point the granite is of the slaty kind with slope of the stratatowards the river which makes a smoothe-somewhat broken-wall at angle of from 20 to 30 from perpendicular.

The river is plainly seen for 2 ms. ahead. The river has for the last 2 ms a due west course & then bends to left. The walls in the slaty granite with the general slope abt 45. Easy of construetion and splendid alignment.

There are one side washes on Rt.-60 ft-span-and one 30' span.

The high marble & sand stone cliffs down river on Rt shown in photo 395 are one solid mass of flame colors some black ledges with same nature of granite with green bushes below, with the same beeded sand stone bet.

In photo No.526 (396) the high at are same flame color with black stains & snow showing in timber in notch to right.

We start down aga boat 1:45 and in 3 minutes make m. to head of Rapid 281. We stop to examine & conclude to drop loaded boats down by lines.

The boats are down safely and we start once more at 3:15 P.M.

This rapid is formed from side wash on Rt is not as bad as some we have run but has very high waves and the lower and beats furiously against the cliff on Rt bank with large rock nearly at end of current which turns it off from cliff. It is a ques. Whether if we attempt to run it we could keep off this rock, so we decide as above.

We sailed two miles on beautifully quiet water and at 3:33 landed on Rt. bank at small side canyon wh. forms Rapid 282. We stop to take Photo 528 (391) showing beautiful butte which is very familiar to me in some of Powell's or Dutton's works.

We row across river & go into Camp No.85 at 4:00 P.M. opposite the side canyon.

It has been showering in the Canyon all day & snowing on the Kibabs. The most beautiful picture of snow we have seen this winter, came in view East of us as we came down this last stretch of River this afternoon.

The whole tops of the plateau down to the red sand stone was completely covered & the green trees stood out in bold relief against it.

(Written diagonally across page.)

Note Feb. 19th.

I believe we camped last night opposite a very large side canyon. Correct notes of 18th as to camp and of the 19th as to position of Photos &c that refer to camp.

Remember to make special note & description of the granite rocks in River at our Camp 85 as shown in Photo s 398 (529)

47 57 52

Cloudy, partially cleared up by noon. Sunny in P.M.

Photo No. 398 (529) Across river-high cliffs in notch, Red below, gret tinged with white. Timber on upper benches Lower strata same as before.

Photo 399 (530) from same point down . The high cliffs in center have yellow lime stone at bottom. All above flaming red no trees.

The first mile below this camp No. 85 is a hard one to navigate, Rapid 282 is formed by two side canyons on opposite sides of the river. These have washed in an immense quantity of boulders that have been washed down the river for a mile & formed two rapids.

This first one (282) is very steep and full of rocks to the surface.

We start to work at it, (after packing up) at 8:30 A.M.

We portage the stuff to foot of rapid on a small gravel bench. Let the boats down by lines over the 1st 200 ft. & then skid them over a bad place out of the water-next to shore.

Photos 531(400)-532 (401)

From point mile below last pictures.

The portage is made & the boats let down to the gravel beach by 10:30. We load up and at 10:55 A.M. start and run as per sketch & in 5 minutes land (after running 283) at head of 284 on left bank. This is formed by side wash on Rt. 80' span is very rocky at low water & can not be run at its head This rapid 284 is fully m. long.

We at once go to work to let boats down loaded (2 men in boats) past the first 500 ft, this is done and we start at 12 noon and in 2 minutes we land mile below on Rt bank for lunch .

This point is 2 to 2 ms below where we camped last night.

High water mark at 50 ft.

From point where river turns to left (above Camp 85 & at end of 2 m. stretch described yesterday) the granite cliff for mile is quite smoothe, the strata of the slaty material being parallel with stream. This goes to side wash 50' span. From this on for a mile the wall is a broken up mixture of hard red strata, soft slaty black, & loose rock slides-sloping on an average abt 30 to 40 from perpendicular.

The granite us getting much lower & the sand stone coming down rapidly.

This same character of wall to point where river turns to left-with some very bold graniet points.

Beyond this the canyon must be very narrow, as the high water mark is between 50 & 60 feet.

12:30 P.M. Photo 533 (402)-534 (403) 1 miles below camp No.85.

At 1:30 P.M. we cross and land 500 feet below at head of Rap.285-we let boats past head of Rapid by 1:45 we row across eddy from A to B and looked at rest of rapid at 1:50 P.M.

At 1:55 P.M. we started and drifted past "C" & then had a narrow shave on the rock but pushed off with oars (the force of the current is all on Rt side of rock in center of river) and then pulled out into the lower end of the rapid & were thro it in 2 minutes and

From the lunch point the walls are almost the same as those just past except the rock is all most all grey granite standing in bold points with large broken slides of immense pieces of angular granite.

This same formation continues for 3 miles further to point where we take Photos at 2:45 P.M.

2 side canyons 60 ft span. Gen. slope of granite 35 to 45 from perpendic.

Note-wonderful view of the heavily snow covered Kibabs to the N.E. from above Point of Photos 402 (533) while it is arm & spring like where we are.

We stopped for Boat No.2 & at 2:05 ran Rapid 286 and in 5 minutes landed to take Photo at point where river turns to left-course of river from big rock to Photo point S23W mag & from here on for at least 2 m. (from same set up) to center of river at end of stretch, course is S5 E mag.

Photo 405 (536) 537 (406) 538 (407) 2:45 P.M.

228 blank.

We restart at 2:50 P.M. on a smoothe stretch of swift water that extends for 2 to 3 ms or more. Beautiful view up & down the river, with long line of high marble & sand stone cliff on right quite near the river.

At 3:08 still in quiet water we land on Rt bank for Photos, 3:15 take 408 (539) 409 (540) these are taken abt 1.m. below where river makes this bend all in swift but quiet water.

On this South stretch of 2 to 3 ms the granite lays at an angle of abt 45 with some broken rock forming flatter low water talus.

The granite is much broken up but the strata or broken lines are parallel with the river & hence not many deep gullies. I note 8 or 10 water ways for 20 ft spans-& one 50 ft span. Some may be handled by overheads.

The granite is getting lower & lower.

The long stretch of River from the bend to left below the Big Rock to the bend to Rt just before intering on the due west course, is wonderfully beautiful , grand & picturesque .

The regular form of the inner granite gorge-capped with the "beeded" sand stone

The beautiful stretch of smoothe but swift water.

The rich green coloring of the grass bushes, & the flowers among the granite breaks, & the shiney sparkling black granite.

The marble cliffs on left coming close to river in great frowning buttresses.

On the Rt the marble cliffs running almost parallel with river; broken into smaller buttresses of every imaginable shape, capped with several benches of the upper red sand stone, all a flaming red.

To the north east this range rising higher & higher to the grey & yellow benches covered with timber.

To the South the turn of River to Rt is cut off by the same red granite & sand cliffs seemingly a straight wall cutting off any further progress.

We start again at 3:36 P.M. on the same smoothe swift water-and at 3:45 pass side wash on left without more than a little ripple.

This is on turn to right and we land at 3:49 on left side 500 ft. above side canyon on left wh. forms Rapid No.287 We take Photo No.410(541) up from river from com. of due west course showing bench of granite below sand stone cliff.

Start at 4:06 and at 4:07 run rapid 287 a long one & complete letter S. we turn in second eddy and lose a few minutes and get under way again at 4:12 we run a small chute not worthy of a number & at 4:15 land on left bank for

Camp No.86.

4:20 Photo 542(411 up from 3/5 way down due west course.

8:40 P.M. Graniet on right abt 100 ft. hi. High water 35 ft.

Granite rises quite sheer for 50 to 60 ft. & then slopes back.

Around this bens to Rt the granite is 50 ft high & forms a beautiful R.R. bench (with easy curve) between the river & the first (beeded) sand stone cliff. This is shown in Photo 410 (541)

We pass Rapid 287 and are practically out of the granite, tho there are patches ahead on the Rt & left also. The "Beeded" sandstone has come down to the water as shown in Photo 411 (542)

High water here only 20 to 25 ft. Below the point where the granite drops under the sand stone-is talus above H W mark. See Photo 411 but not high enough for line-this can easily be made from the sandstone bluffs. above.

On right of this W course the marble stands in two immense shere (sheer) buttresses out near the river-with the slope formed by the crumbled lime (yellow) abt 400 ft. wide from top of "beeded" stratum back to foot of marble. On left the remainder of the granite and the lower limestone have crumbled into an even sloping talus 50 to 100 ft. high, running from waters edge up to marble-which on this side is quite broken up & benched up to the top.

The needed sandstone has entirely disappeared on this side since the side canyon wh. forms Rap.287.

On this W course are 4 water ways-10 to 20 ft.

Blank p. 237

48 58 53. Cloudy cloudy rain.

At 8:00 A.M. take photo from same point as 542(411) down river 543 (412) down.

We take it easy this morning-wait for light for photos.

We start on quiet but swift water at 8:15 A.M.

At 8:30 we run small rapid 288 and at ';26 land on left bank, at side canyon which form rapid 289. We take photo 544(413) 545(414) up & down river 1 to 1 ms below last.

The same broken nature of the marble & high talus continues on left side to Rapid 289.

We start at 8:50 row across & exam Rapid 289 and at 9:02 run it in first class shape tho it is heavy & rocky, but straight chute bet. the rocks in center. We go only a few feet from them on each side.

We stop at 9:06 at head of Rap.290 & examine it. It is easy with only one rock in center. We also look at 291 m. ahead formed by larger wash on left

We start at 9:18 and run 290 without a drop of splash-by keeping to right of high waves.

9:24 stop for Photos 546(415) 547 (416)

Photo 416 shows to next turn to left and to where the granite seems to entirely disappear-with the beeded sandstone down to the water.

Course N 20 E mag m.

Hislop N 12 E-

From our camp 86 to point where river turns sharp to Rt the granite on Rt side forms a bench from 20' to 50 ft above low water, with the "beeded" sandstone above and from 75 to 100 ft back from edge of granite.

This makes splendid R R bench around this turn & on low parts plenty of material to work from in the sand stone above.

Around the Rt curve beautiful line for R.R. Granite not over 10 ft hi at waters edge but large sand stone talus above high water.

This same low bench of granite continues around (and thro) N 20 E mag course) to where river turns to left-sand stone there comes down to water. Line would come round on easy curve just under the sand stone "beeded", to left turn & then jump on top of sand stone bench.

Above the sand stone the slope up to the lime stone below the marble-500 to 800 ft wide and at an--angle of 20 to 50 from horizontal.

From the side canyon on the left at Rap. 289 the Canyon has a X sec thus

Line all round this sec. can be located on the lime stone slope or at ft of beeded sand stone on talus made sufficient by breaking down this sand stone.

(This is the order he wrote in. )sb

We restart after photos at 9:52 A.M. on beautiful stream of placid water. At 9:56 A.M. we pass entirely out of view. Take photo (detec.)

Strata-sand of stone

10:05 stop to examine and at 10:05 run 291 long gravel at 10:15 stop & look at Rapid No. 292 and at 10:20 we run it and stop on Rt bank for Photos at 10:23 at Rap 293 take them 1000 ft beyond

Photos 548 (417) 540 (418)

548 shows creek with forked canyon in the distance S-mag 549 shows canyon abt 3 ms down river.

At 11:18 we start again and run rapid 293 a long crooked gravel rapid but easily run-and at 11:30 A.M. we stop for lunch & to change the photo rolls.

This latter takes some time.

Take Photos 550 (419) 551 (420)

We start again at 1:35 P.M. and at 1:38 we run rapid 294 and are thro it in just 2 minutes. It is a regular letter S, very swift & rough but free from rocks.

Below this is a stretch of a mile of very swift water, then smoothe bay all the way to where s l ide canyon comes in on left.

Thro this stretch of west & N.W. course from our lunch point the "beeded" sandstone rises right from the waters edge in rough perpendic. cliffs for abt 40' to 60ft. this can easily be cut to any grade throwing the waste in the river-for above it is the long easy slope of the lime stone.

The "heeded" sand stone is gradually coming down to the water. And at point where 1st large side canyon comes in on left-runs out at waters edge, but is broken back in benches from the water.

blank p. 245

Gen. character of canyon from Cataract Creek to camp 87

(some drawing.) See photos 419 (550) 426 (557)

We reach first side canyon on left and land at head of rapid 295 at 2P.M. At 2:07 we run 295 in fine style. High waves but we cut thro on left & miss them all, What beautiful rapids all day today.

"Dancing" "prancing" &c &c.

At 2:10 we land at foot & stop for Photos. 421(552) 422 (553) D at 1st side wash noted on map. We start again at 2:30 and at 2:35 land at rapid 296, a very shallow gravel rapid, we go thro at 2:40 and touch once on bottom. Stop 5 min. & start a:45. At 2:50 we land at head of 297 another shallow gravel rapid at 2:55 we run it & land at 3:00 P.M. at 2d side canyon & rapid 298.

248 blank.

We start at 3:15 and run No.298 in 2 minutes. Very high waves caused by water dropping over ledges of the "beeded" sand stone ledge as it goes down. At 3:30 we stop & go into CAMP No.87.

Our sugar is entirely gone. 3:45 Photo 423 (554)

424 (555 D at mouth os 2d side wash.

On Rt side bet 1st & 2d canyons on ft. is side wash 60 ft span.

Beyond this around the Rt turn the slopes are very high & cut by the water showing a face of conglomerate nearly fifty ft. high at the point this more a mass of debris on either side but a mass of stone & gravel of middle at point.

(Enlarge on beautiful R.R. line-few washes-Grassy slopes. Easy curves.)

Blank-252.

44 54 54

Rained steady. Clouds breaking away 8 A.M. all night. Soon com. to rain rained hard all A.M.

Raining almost all day.

The clouds this morning hung down 3/5 of the way from the top & formed a varied picture among the peaks & buttresses along the river.

Looking up the river on Rt the line of cliffs thus at top & clouds down bet. each pair made them look immensely higher. While in one direction the clouds hung low & the top of one very prominent butress shown out above in the clear giving it the appearance of an immense Mt. hanging over the river.

Photos 425 (556) 426(557) 427(558) from camp 87 attempt to show clouds.

High water mark little over 20 ft. The colors of the long stretch above our camp are very regular.

1st at bottom the "beeded" sand stone Brown & dark. Grassy slopes above. 2d the lime stone, strata of 5' to 20' dark brown, grey, yellow, dark green & above higher ones of yellow & grey tinged with red.

3rd The Red colored marble.

4th The flame colored sand stone.

Start from camp in a gentle rain at 9:20 A.M. & at once run Rapid 299 & stop at 9:26 at head of 300 at 9:29 we run it-easy & small.

On Rt there is a beautiful talus slope overlying the remnant of the "beeded" sandstone & the lower portions of the limestone strata.

The slopes on Rt (& left also) get higher & higher. They are here 200 ft. hi running back to the upper benches of the limestone & in many places broad & flat.

The rain continues and in a little while small streams begin to pour over the top of the marble cliffs in every one of the recesses at the top (see previous sketch) and drop 600 to ft. thro the air to the lime stone slopes below and in a time run thro the gullies & over the sand stone into the river. The fall is so far from top of marble that the streams break into spray before they strike.

A wonderfull beautiful picture. The streams, the clouds playing back & forth in & out of the alcoves and up & down the buttresses and pinacles on both sides of the river.

At 12:30 we are sitting resting after lunch, we heard a roar up the side canyon & looking up saw a stream of red water rushing down. Grab every thing & run. Get across before it reaches us.

Sec. of River looking down from mile above large side canyon on left.

These flats & slopes cut by gullies the same as those in Cataract Canyon-many little streams come over the marble in rain. These must be provided for In cases several Vsn be taken thro one opening. All have good basins behind to catch in, wh. will save much work.

At 12:30 take Photos from point lower side of large side canyon.

No.561(436) 562 (431)

Rapid 303 is formed by the large side canyon coming in on left. It has washed out great quantities of boulders and formed this rapid-which is fully one mile in length.

Start at 12:45 P.M. & run half of it. Land in eddy on Rt & examine. Start again at 1:01 and land at foot at 1:04

The party wait while I go back to make sketch. We start at 1:30 and at 1:35 stop to look at Rapid No. 304.

At 1:45 we run 304 and I again get drenched to the skin. We stop at 1:52 to look at 305.

(Full page sketch of course of river.)

Rapid 303 and note where Photos 430 & 431 were taken.

Note at foot "From pt. "C" the "beeded" sandstone is rising & high water mark up as much as 50 ft. We must be approaching the narrow Granite Gorge again.

To save time while I take Photos-the crews run Rap. No. 305 and wait for me below.

These photos are taken at bend in river to left as shown in sketch. photos 563(432) 564 (433)

Taken under an overhanging cliff 30ft. hi project 10 ft. to keep out of rain.

Running distances from side Canyon on Rt where Granite begins.

Magnet-

Side Canyon to Rt turn 2 ms course NS Rt turn to Rt side Van. 9A. M. 1 ms Side Can. on Rt to left turn 1"Same- Turn to left 311 1 "N 20 E " " " 312 etc.

Photo 1 m. above lower granite gorge 434 (565) 435 (566) 435 looking down the Lower Granite Gorge from one mile above it for 2 ms to bedn to Rt. The perp. cliff in left of 434 is 30' hi 20

We start at 8:12 and at 8:14 run Rap.306-quite easy. At 8:16 we land at head of Rap 307. The bad part of this is short but very rocky-5 or 6 ft drop. This rapid is formed by a large side canyon on Rt. Large tho the marble but small in the "beeded" sandstone 50 to 80 ft span on exam . in the m. above this are two 30 ft. spans.

At this side canyon the black glazed granite rises suddenly up & continues to rise as far as I can see.

At 8:25 we begin to let boats over Rapid 307 by lines-at 8:38 both boats are down and we start again at 8:43 A.M.

At 8:45 we run Rap. 308 a small

" 8:49 " " ". 309 " "

Water along this N. stretch is quite smoothe after Rap 307 but swift & we are making beautiful time.

At 8:55 we land on left bank at Rt turn for photos, 567 (436) 568 (437) Down showing Mt. with snow in distance. We start again at 9:27-the water is smoothe but swift. We stop at 9:33 at large side canyon on Rt wh. forms very bad rocky rapid 310-8 to 10' fall. Around this we portage all our stuff and swing our boat down with lines.

From point some miles back where "beeded" sandstone begins to rise RR line would be on top of this stratum until it rises too hi for grade then cut it into River to make road bed on low water talus now under it. This would be the line till it reaches the granite-this there would serve as the low water talus & bank still be made from sand stone above. Side was on Rt 40' span-at this side wash granite 60 to 70' hi forming a beautiful bench for line.

High water abt 30 to 40 ft.

From Rt turn the granite rises rapidly is of the slate kind. Stands with the strata dipping into river from the Rt.

The line would be rough but easily handled. The "beeded" sandstone is on top as before-some of its points would perhaps have to be cut to give good alignment.

This is the character to & for a short distance beyond side can.80 ft. span.

At side can. noted take photos 1 ms below last 569(438) 570(439) from pt 300 ft above river.

From Rt side Can. (just left) for one mile the Rt wall is much broken and the points stand pretty straight, as the strata are much more vertical-10 to 15 from vert. but these points are easily cut-the tops of the highest are only 40 to 50 ft above R.R. grade

On left side of Canyon the slope is flatter. (drawing)

Form of Granite- inner gorge From lunch point-side Can. on left Granite is very bold-in points but considerably broken up requiring simply to cut the points heavy-one or two 50 to 70' up Photo 442. .

These however are only points 50 to 60 ft. thro and easil cut & thrown into River.

At 1:20 P.M. Photos from pt. on lower side of can. 1000 ft below last 573 (442) 574 (443)

We start at 1:42 P.M. & at 1:47 stop at Rap. 313 and take photos. The rapid is easy-so to save time the boats at 1:55 run it (while we take the pictures-in one minute.)

575 (444) 576 (445) from pt m. below last. We start at 2:06 from foot of Rap 313, at 2:19 we stop at head of 314 formed by large side ca n on Rt. It is m. long-immensely rocky has about a 20 ft. fall and requires a portage. We start to work at 2:30 P.M. portage the stuff & lower boats by lines-2 men in-from rock to rock. The portage is made & boats lowered by-We load & start at 4:50 P.M.

The Granite from the last side Can. on Rt to and around the turn to left is smashed all up & looks in shape & stands in forms like the Idaho Lava. The slopes of the slopes are in general from 40 to 45 from perpendic. are (1-side wash 50' span) generally regular and smoothe and covered with grass & grease wood. 1-30' span.

The general curve to left makes a beautiful line-any where up the slope you wish. High water not over 20 ft up.

This takes us to side Can. on Rt. (80' span) forming Rap 314 abt 2000 ft below this is much larger side canyon-100 ft. span. This has noy formed a rapid but comes into loqer end of 314 without affecting it.

The rain of the past few days has been snow on top, for we see the distant high peaks covered with fresh snow, making a beautiful picture with the green parts shining out against the snow.

Photos 577 (446) 578 (447) 2:30 P.M.

Thro this portion of the Canyon-the coloring below is not so bright as it was above where we entered the Granite this time. There came in-at pt. noted where granite is smashed to flinders-a, to me, curious change (I must see Dottun's work) The granite dipped down very low to water and as it rose again on top of fit was a layer of yellow & grey limestone under the beeded sandstone that has always heretofore been directly over the granite. This layer of limestone has increased in thickness from a thin edge to abt 1000 ft and lays bet. the Granite & the beeded sand stone. The slope above the Sandstone runs up quite flat to the broken up portions at bottom of marble.

(sketch with description-here).

From the side canyon Rap.314 then slopes for mile down past the next side canyon (100 ft. span) are the same as those above resembling the Idaho Lava-and are quite flat and easy-this extends to the small side canyon abt. 1 m's above Tapeats Creek-at this point the wall on right changes alto-gether. It is composed of the same "Lava" rock & it stand at an angle of abt 10 from vertical & is from 50 to 80 ft. high. (Sketch.) These sketches show plan & elevation as seen from west side of River.

Bottom of 274.

Above this cliff are good slopes-but except at the (to top of p.276) point where it is only 50 ft hi are too far up for use. Line to be located here to cut & waste top of cliff & thro into river to make Bench. The whole is abt. 1 m's in length.

On left side of this end the slopes are very flat formed of debris from the upper cliffs. See photos 579, 580, 581.

At 4:55 run Rapid 315 without stopping at 5:05 we stop on left bank & look for a camp ground. At 5:10 we run Rap. 316 easy & go into Camp No.89. at 5:12 At foot of Rapid 316 and about mile above TAPEAT'S CREEK.

Blank p.

47 51 52

Cloud, sprinkling occasionally all day.

I have been much puzzled for the last 3 or 4 days as to our position on the river. Since our Camp 85.

We are today camped (89) abt m above Tapeat's Creek.

My not a as to position &c must therefore be all corrected-for a long distance back, this can easily be done when I get to my regular maps-as the notes are made by courses from one bend to the other nothing right & left as they come. I have today changed the principle items in these notes.

3 P.M. Photo 579 (448) 580 (449) one mile above Tapeats creek-according to corrected distances. The palidades shown here-commence mile above at side canyon shown in 448.

581 (450) down from camp No.89, m. above Tapeats Creek.

582 (451) Sunday Camp, RBS & J.H. From our camp we can see two high clear rock peaks just beyond the Tapeats Creek on Rt of River. They are the first absolutely barren points I have noticed on the river-I think they are marble.

The snow makes a beautiful appearance on the sides of the canyon making the slopes bet the perp. cliff of marble & upper red sand stone quite white, and the higher edges & the plateaus are heavily covered and as the sun comes out the whole picture lights up with a wonderful effect.

40 46 46 Bright sun cloudy by 8:30 clear P.M.

Heavy snow on top last night. This A.M. snow shows lower on the sides of the canyon than at any time this winter.

The cook called me at 5:30 A.M. saying the river had risen 3 ft last night & all our goods on the bank were under water. But little damage to anything. No loss. Certainly a sudden rise. We load up slowly as usual after a Sun. camp but get started at 7:40 A.M.

AT 7:48 we land on left bank oppo. mouth of Tapeats Creek at Rap 317 at 8:05 let loaded boats past head of rapid.

The boats are down at 8:40 A.M.

Photo 583 (452) mouth of Tapeats Cr. 584 (453) down from mouth of " "

A little way above Tapeats Creek for the mile below a second lower bench formed. Saving some of the heavy cutting noted in Saturday's sketch. Tapeats Creek 150 ft. span. At point beyond creek- m.-all the granite & "Lava" rock suddenly drops down & out-at this side w. 50' span.

Beyond this the slope is abt 45 is possibly lime stone underneath but is covered with sandstone debris from the beeded cliff above. This does not continue more than m. where the granite suddenly rises up again.

The granite rises very rapidly-and in mile from first bend, to Rt below Tapeats Creek is 80' high-and then the wall benches back to the sandstone.

These granite points as seen from where Photo 456 is taken are practically perpendic. but would at a very small figure in a R.R. line since

High water is 25 ft. & up-grade would be here at least 25' more and so would leave but little to cut down.

Even with these I have not yet found a cliff 200ft long & perpendicular 50 ft-above high water.

The most prominent point shown in photo 456 does over hang 15 ft. in points 50 ft long-wh. makes overhanging points but not walls. Going thro this piece of granite the walls are very ragged & broken into point which stand up very bold. Grade must be high & thro these into river. No real difficulty for line Below the granite on long Rt turn of river the slope is a great Mt. slide of debris from above undoubtedly over lying the "beeded" sandstone, which at end of granite has dropped out of sight. High water mark has again dropped to abt. 25 ft.

(descript of sketch on 283 cont.)

The current beats against the first rock so hard as to pile up 5 ft. hi. & turn both ways in such force that nothing could live in it. We must go across, let down by lines from A to B and then we can run the rest-to save time I go ahead m. & take photos at head of Granite & climb down the granite wall 50 to 60 ft into the boats.

At 10:10 the crews row across and at 10:45 have let down-and they run the lower end at 10:52 A.M.

10:30 Photo 586 (455) up river showing west side (snow) of Powell's Plateau.

456 (587) down at head of granite 1 m. miles below Tapeats Creek. Shows narrow granite gorge abt. 1 mile long.

Boats stop for us & we sail again at 11: A.M. At 1:15 we run small rapid 321 at 1:18 land on left vank at head of rap. 322 and at and of granite.

11:30 Photo 588 (457) up, showing lower end of Granite patch.

589 (456) down river. 590 (459)------(?) full at end of Granite patch.

Hislop is very wet so we stop for Lunch.

We lunch and then start at 12:55 & run Rap. 322 over m. in 3 min. both boats did beautiful steering among the rocks & wave we go right on in smoothe but swift water.

We see cliff dwellings on left side.

We stop at 1:05 to look at Rap. 323 it is clear of rocks but very hi. waves a drop of 8 to 10 ft. Several wavea all over the boats & at 1:17 land for Photos.

At Rt turn of River the "beeded" sand stone jumps in a rough perpendic. wall 60 to 80 ft hi. broken thro occasionally by breaks, tho of small washes-making large slopes up to marble above.

This sandstone has a talus almost everywhere, a good part of which is above & w-so it will not be hard to make good alignment. This character continues around long swing of River to left. 2-50' spans on this swing to its center at center, at Rapid 323 on Rt beeded sandstone 100 ft. hi. for a distance of 75 ft. over hangs 20 to 30 ft. see Photo 592 (461)

We continue on long left turn 1-50' span. The beeded sand stone has sunk out entirely and there are immense Mt. slopes running up to the marble.

This is the sand stone that is covered up by the debris.

This slope continues as far as we can see.

Top

p. 289. drawing.

Immense wave curling over Travers, volunteers to run it first, tho Hislop was ready. He makes a most successful trip. Hislop follows in as good style. Not the most dangerous but the highest waves of any rapid yet run.

At 2:50 Boat No. 2 ran No. 326 & at 2:55 Boat No.1 ran No.326 both very successfully. Star 3:00 P.M. Stop 3:06 to examine 327 at 3:10 We run (all) it-very swift but not hi waves. 3:15 stop & at 3:20 run it, get turned round at head & go down broad side & then past some ugly rocks on left-we go stern first but turn easily below.

From Rapid 326 for four miles to Kanab Wash.

(Drawing of cross sec. of Can.) just before it turns to Rt. High water mark 25 ft.

Describe Mt. slope of talus all the way to Kanab Wash.

the water is very swift the whole river moving as one but filled with great whirls and boils-but very small eddys. Thro this run we came in quite good style-tho our boat was twisted & turned in every direction. Such good swift water, even with the whirls & cross currents was a great relief after the hard rapids of the day.

At 3:33 run without stopping 329 3:45 stop on Rt bank & take Photo 595 (464) up river shows regular talus mt. slope. Taken just before river turns to Rt a bt m. above Kanab Wash.

At 4:00 P.M. we start again and at 4:12 P.M. we reach Kanab Wash .

We cross Kanab and go into Camp No. 90. in willows in flat in Kanab Wash.

50' span on Rt. Slope from Photo 464 down increasing on Rt side not so hi on left.

This slope & sec. as per last sketch continues around bend to Rt. to the side canyon on Rt. wh. proves to be Kanab Wash. The last m. is abt 60 to 70' with more broken points of marble above it before coming to the main marble cliffs.

In the convex side as River turns to left as side canyon-which on reaching it we find to be Kanab Wash.

5 P.M. Photo 596 (465) 497 (597)

From bank just above Kanab Wash.

( Cross sec. drawing "Just below Kanab W." Sec as it appears below side can. as it appears approaching it from above-(Kanab Wash.)

295 blank.

Section m above mouth of Kanab Can.look.up Reduced use

Sec. just below mouth of Kanab Wash. Looking down.

43 49 48

Clear. Very cloudy & sprinkling since 1) A.M. all day.

River raised again last night. It must be now 5 to 6 ft. higher than Sunday A.M.

We stop this A.M. to make survey at mouth of Kanab Canyon which makes us late in starting.

At Kanab Wash is Rapid 330 fully 1 m. long formed by boulders & waste from Kanab moved doen Canyon.

Not high wave but very swift.

(I stood up all way down 330.)

We start at ';35 and at 8:37 entered the rapid and make the first mile by 8:43 when we stop to look, at 8:30 we go again & make m. in about 3 minutes including starting & stop. We land 1000 ft. above Rapid 331-make by side canyon on Rt 50' span and tho it is not difficult, at Hislop's request we run this "light". At 9:10 ran 331 & landed in eddy in 3 minutes for photos.

598 (467) 599 (468)

Bet. 1 & 2 ms below Kanab 3/4 m. above bend to Rt-1st below K.

We start 9:30 and stop at 9:34 at 334 Can. left. It is rough but clear.

Start 9:40 & run 332 & stop at 9:45 to wait for No.2 caught in whirl. wait 2 min. See note end of last

In coming down we got broadside in Rap. then turn, stern down & then round. Boat entirely out of control.

From Kanab down the talus is much lower but the top is still above H.W. & the bottom bench of marble is easily broken down for material.

Note 2 ms. below Kanab.

The talus has almost disappeared entirely so above H.W. But the first bench of marble is lower and the lime stone below has some bench. And abt 1 m. ahead a big talus shows up.

From Kanab to that Pt. the line will be expensive to cut the marble bench to make roadbed.

(Sketch). of "photo point looking up"

The river is still rising-the current is very swift & getting more so. The whole distance is like one low continuous chute and the ride is very exciting. I stand in bow of No.1 and look out ahead for rapids & rocks-we get some times caught in whirls & boils & thrown first one way & then the other & sometimes round & round-from one side of the river to the other.

This is in the 4:75 ft per mile fall so this is all caused by this sudden rise of ten or more feet which was noted above & of course here where it is narrower much more .

Stop at 10.00 A.M. for Photos.

600 (469) 601 (470) m. above sharp turn to Rt. Start 10:20 & at 10:22 run Rap. 333 and at 10:24 run Rap. 334 not very heavy but swift on a acct. of high water.

Around long Rt bend the cliffs are much broken and will give a much easier line than the first part described from Kanab down. At center of this bend the section us th i s looking down (sketch)

See photo 469

Canyon on Rt 60' span.

This section around this quick curve to left (after photo 10:00 A.M.) is very simple-the bench is entirely above H.W.

At 10:54 start & run 335-No.1 goes over them all. Thro it in 2 min. Stop in eddy below. (See note ahead.)

p. 316

At 11:15 we start & run in same swift current till,

At 11:30 stop for photos and conclude lunch. Photo 602 (471) 603 (472) From point just above sharp turn to left at end of long turn to left.

All around the left turn beyond side canyon on Rt the line improves. The stratafied-fosiliferuous limestone is getting higher & the marble is much broken on its lower benches.

(Written diagonally across page.)

Grandeur of this section from Kanab down-all marble-except lower strata of fossiliferuous limestone. Colors not so bright as above. Gen. Impression of perp. walls &c.

Wonderful ride all morning. Exciting and somewhat dangerous. Sharp turns. Going so fast can not tell what is ahead Sharp lookout quick & exciting stop at head of 335.

After lunch we start at 12:45 P.M.

As we turn on S course beautiful peak with this top comes in view covered with snow.

We stop at 12:56 to look ahead. Start at 1:07 & run Rap. 336 at 1:09 we get in whirls & eddies & waltz around at great rate for a few minutes, at 1:13 land at head of 337 & at Hislop's request run it light. At 1:22 stop in eddy at 1:24 and at 1:27 start again and at 1:38 land to look ahead. Very hard to land, current more swift, walls vertical & overhanging points for 50 ft. up from water, land at last on few rocks. Hislop & Kane climb up cliff & go ahead.

A most trying and worrying day to me the rapid water-rising-raining-attempting to take notes &c &c.

Just after lunch we turn the sharp left bend and get on the South course all around and on this S course walls same as last X sec. and Photos taken at lunch. Drainage all along to be provided for small streams from top of cliff.

This same character of wall & line continue around next swing to right-as above-some places the limestone is higher & at others lower. The line to be located high up and so cut the points not so badly.

We stop at 2:10 to take photos.

next to 313.

2:15 Photo 604 (473) 605 (474) D point noted.

We start at 2:25 and run Rap. 338-and at 2:30 to look ahead thinking we saw a rapid-we start at 2:38 and again stop at 2:40 to see great rapid ahead-and when we get to it find it only rolling waves.

Rapid 335-*

Note from back. In rapid 335 No.2 boat badly taken over the high waves. One row lock washed out & (they) are carried far below before they can land. We carry their two extra men down to them & have had a hard pull to get there out of eddy & whirls. We have actually to pull up on a mound of water. My paddle comes in fine play.

After the river nakes the sharp turn to left-with side Can. on Rt, 80' span-and enters on the general S.W. course it makes 4 large swings first Rt then left &c. we are camped abt center of the 1st of these (to Rt.)

Note from Rap.332.

No. 2 just before entering Rap. 332 caught in immense whirlpool-on left side-is turned & turned round-no power to get her out. Gets in vortex & one side of boat is drawn down so water pours over gunwale, by no effort of men, but the whirl shoots them up & out. As we go over 332 we see them go into whirl, the water is so piled up-back current bet. us that we can only see their heads-over hill of water.

52 56 49

Still cloudy Drizzling rain at times all day.

At Point of Camp 91 the first bench of marble is abt 100 ft. hi. but as the canyon here is narrow & waste would raise the water very rapidly, our line must be located quite high.

After Photos taken we start at 8:20 and at 8:25 run Rap. 341.

At 8:30 A.M. we ran Rap. 342 with very swift current at foot of it and but a short distance from it to next rapid (343). Between these we encounter a great swell such as described yesterday. We are carried thro this swell and are turned quarterly and as our boat rises and falls over these waves in the cradle of the deep-we are approaching the rapid below and attempt to pull out of current but in a moment find it impossible, then by great effort of Hislop at stern & I with paddle at bow, we turn boat head on & go into the rapid-with the swell & the rapid at same time we get an awful shaking up & a wetting from head to foot, but our good boat rides it safely at 8:35 A.M.

All note fr. 337

Same gen. formation of Canyon on this S.W. course as we had all yesterday afternoon. At and around Rt bend just below Camp 91 the points that rise above the gen. level of the R.R. bench are very abrupt & hi. the cutting wod. be very heavy but easily handled.

Long sec. towards river.

Around left bend same good bench as before. This continues around next left turn. But it is noticable that the bench on left wall is smoother than on Rt.

9 A.M. Photo 608 (477) 609 (478) Up side canyon on sharp turn to left-after N.W. course. Side can. 60' span. Start 9:32 & run Rap. 346 in 2 minutes (light) & wait for men.

Start again at 9:42 and at 9:47 run small Rap. 347. Stop at 10:00 at head of Rap. 348 large side can. on left. Start & run 348 at 10:13 quite long & rough at bottom.

Stop at 10:20 for photos a little x above where river 1st(1m) turns to left after canyon on Rt.

610 (479) 611 (486)

480 shows Mt. Emma in the dist.

We start at 10:33-10:35 run small Rap349. Stop at 10:43 stop at head of 350 side can. on Rt 100 ft span.

Run this rapid light at 10:55 and (to-at 11:00 A.M. we stop for lunch at end of 2d short N.W. course at large side canyon on Rt.

After lunch we start at 12:27 P.M. at 12:45 stop & take photo No. 612(481) down abt'2 ms abv. Cataract Creek. We start again at 12:48 & at 1:00 P.M. run Rap. 351. The 2 ms. above Cataract Creek is a most wonderful & beautiful view. The wide canyon (after the narrow above lunch) broad river, high talus slopes covered with green above H.W. mark variagated colored walls, mostly red-with bright red in dist. & the wonderful shapes of the benched walls

All round this sharp turn to left a beautiful bench-lowest part 30' above H.W. more regular than some further back & being outside curve is good alignment.

The face of this bench towards river has the above profile.

We begin now to turn to Rt again the canyon is widening out on the stretch beyond the 1st Rt turn-the bench same as before.

Notable fact this bench keeps right with the grade of the River.

High W. all thro here 25 ft.

The same bench continues in same general form to and around the left turn past our lunch point at end of 2d N.W. course.

From lunch pount on the 1st bench that we have had all day seems to be getting higher & as the canyon gets wider a high talus slope is forming at bottom under the marble.

(now to 324.-

No Scale

1/4 mile below lunch point the talus increases-at a 45 slope to from 75 to 100 ft hi and it is underlaid by solid rock slope of the horizontally stratified lime stone & it will be easy to come down from the fine RR bench we have had all yesterday & today to this fine talus slope just after crossing the side canyon at our lunch point. 2-30' over heads here.

At 1:05 the stratified lime stone is rising and a stratum of grey lime shows above the water on both sides.

Note character of forms from Dutton.

At 1:15 P.M. we run long shallow rapid 325 formed by side canyon on Rt.

At 1:17 land at foot m. above Cataract Creek on left.

1:30 P.M. photo 613 (485) from Cataract Creek up.

Start at 1:40 & at 1:44 run Rap.353 formed by Cataract Creek. Stop in eddy to pick up Photos, at 1:47 start again and at 1:52 run Rap.354

After turning to left the 2 ms abv. Cataract Creek opens up-beautiful, talus slope all the way large can. on Rt. 150' span. Under strata rising up & marble receeding & canyon getting wider.

Sec. just above Cataract Creek Look up

Opposite Cataract Cr. the talus on Rt. side is washed out by the river being forced over by the wash from Cat. Creek Below this however the talus is much larger than even above the Creek. the

At 2:00 P.M. we stop 7 minutes for hislop to shoot a duck. But he misses it.

At 2:18 we run Rap. 355 and at 2:28 stop at large side canyon on Rt.-80' span-Start at 2:43 and at 2:44 run this long letter S rapid 356 3/4 m. in 4 minutes. This would have been very shallow & rocky but for the rise of the river.

At 2:50 we run rapid 357 and stop at 2:53 for photos.

Canyon is gradually widening out and as it does the benches of the marble get more frequent up the sides of the Canyon.

The stretch to & around left turn below Cataract Creek the talus is getting higher & broader & the benches of marble are getting more frequent and closer together- way down this stretch side canyon on Rt 50' span.

3:00 P.M. Photos 614 (483) 615 (484) from center of S.W. course.

We start again at 3:10 P.M. and at 3:12 run Rap. 358. At 3:16 run Rap. 359.

at 3:19 " " 360

Gen. character of these rapids that we run right along with out stopping-a sharp drop at head-swift water-two currents one fr. each side meeting high waves (high water now) dashed one side & then other-but clear of rocks & boats that so far can ride anything.

at 3:25 we run Rap. 361

at 3:30 " " ". 362

at 3:32 " " " 363

Just at turn to Rt in to a gen. West course, and at 3:35 pass the 1st Lava munu. ment in river spken of by Powell-see Photo 485.

On this southwest course shown in photos 614 (483) 615 0 there is a magnificent talus slope-high & broad at one pt. shown in Photo 483. The whole side of canyon is broken in one slope to the very top.

The walls lower down are one series of benches some wider than others and all covered with green grass & grease wood bushes.

The lower part of this S.W. course the strata of lime stone are rising and slopes getting higher & higher-the canyon widerening out and at foot of slope formed on the stratified lime stone has a 10 to 20 ft cliff at ft. of it and another talus forming below it.

(drawing)

Land at 3:40 P.M. to take Photos No. 485 (517) 486 (518) m. past turn to west course. Beautiful view down river-wonderful change. [These r written diagonally on p. RSB]

Black Lava in two immense cliffs-hills in distance barren rock-sone shaped, cinder cones on left, beautiful clopes at bottom winding quiet river & perfect stillness

Green bushes & flowers-grass &c at foot-all co-mingled make a beautiful grand and awe inspiring picture. Extinct volcanoes &c &c.

Hasty note. Canyon divides into sections-close granite widens out-fine slopes-Closes again-toBridle fall-widens out with fine talus to Kanab Wash. From Kanab to nearly lunch pt. of 2/26 close again. This widens out to Lava &c &c.

We start at 4:02 in quiet water and soon hear the roar so familiar-and at 4:20 stop at head of the great Cataract forme by the Lava Dike & go into CAMP 92. on left bank.

This Lava Cataract is No.364.

336 blank.

Notes Before 9:00 A.M. kept on piece of paper on acct of rain.

In rapid 343 ie p 319 p 219 our boat after starting at head "bow to" was caught between two waves and in an instant whisked round and we went down thro the greater part of the rapid in a regular waltz & finally stern first-a dangerous & exciting ride, the boat entirely agabel & at the mercy of the whirls & eddys. This just at begin. of Rt turn.

In this last rapid I got wet wet and I am almost frozen.

One very important item must be remembered on all this fine bench, besides the sans here noted Drainage must be provided for a great number of small streams that come down from the very top of the marble at every little crevis.

I think this is much helped by the fact that most of them have basins washed out into th. they first drop.

This is very important to study.

(sketch) See back of Rap 343 look up

The same fine bench continues around this right turn abt the same distance above river-at the point of turn the marble abv is quite rough & requires some heavy cutting.

After this Rt turn & down stretch to left turn this sec. occurs.

This is on N.W. course before sharp turn to left.

At 8:49 we run Rap. 344 on the N.W. course and at 9:50 345 at begin. of short left turn. Stop at 8:55 at head of Rap. 346 at side canyon on Rt nearly oppo. point of left sharp turn.

Land on left side & take Photos at 9:00 A.M. (see back).

This rapid is a very dangerous one the whole current beats against the left wall-no talus-and rolls out in one great boil 6' to 8' hi which would be utter destruc-to get in to. By starting up high and getting good speed at start we lelieve it is safe-to be sure, all extra men are alnded on rt. bank and it is run light in good shape.

Around this sharp bend to left the splendid 1st bench continues even more beautiful alignment.

Hasty note.

Wonderful ride all day Tuesday & till lunch on Wednesday 26th. Stand in bow look round corners-swift current Swells-small eddys-hard stops, jump & hold on to line. Whirl pools-look at rapids ahead dont stop by waves, try to stop cant. Anxiety awful & dangerous but no other way, walls on each side for 50 to 80' perpendicular &c &c.

29 50 42

Clear all day. River fell 2 ft last night. Cleared off last night and turned terribly cold, I suffered more from cold this morning than any day this winter.

Everyone frozen-Have to go into the water so we wait till sun comes over cliff. We, H.T. & myself, walk down & look at rapid. Conclude to skid boats on left side of this gt. cataract Rap. 364.

We also look at 365 the second fall abt mile below-think we can run it well. Hislop sets fire to grass in swamp formed by the great springs on left bank. Commence portage at 9:00 A.M. made & boats skidded down over rocks on left side at 11:00 A.M. & packed up in 15 minutes.

They wait for me for photos, made necessary by the smoke fr. Hislop's fire.

We then eat lunch to save another stop. 11:00 A.M. 619 (487) 620 (488) Taken from lower end of wash.

621 (489) down river. These photos taken at mouth of fissure on left bank opposite volcano.

Note the Fissure, springs, swamp great was (?) of boulders from fissure, but thro later 50 to 60 ft. deep & also by river the fault on left side &c &c.

We start after lunch from foot of Rap. (Cat.) 364 at 1:05 P.M. and at 1:10 land on opposite side to take photos.

At 1:16 boats run No. 365 with ease (light) & land 1:18

1:15 P.M. photo 622 (490) m. below colcano oppo. Fault.

The same magnificent talus continues past the Rt turn that enters on the Gen. west course and to the volcano.

Along the lava the talus is not as heavy but it is continuous and can be made prominent not with standing the Catar. by dropping huge blocks of lava for base of bank. The lava is not perpendicular but is benched back considerably.

The fall of this Cataract 364 is abt. 15-18 ft. in 200 and rapid below.

From the Volcano the line would be on good slope-but not even as they come out in great banks.

Making more work. One 30' span. Some Lava slide on top think it is solid underneath.

We start at 1:15 run 436 at 1:37

437 at 1:38

Easy rapids 468 " 1:42

2 to 4' fall. 469 " 1:56

Gen. explanation of their character. Opposite 3d Lava pile.

We stop at 2:00 P.M. on left bank just below begin. of big turn to Rt for photos 491 (623) 492 (624)

Start again at 2:20 P.M.

at 2:21 run Rap. 470

2:24 " ". 471 at Rt turn [The 372 etx his mistake]

2:27 " ". 372

2:30 run Rap. 373

2:33 run Rap. 374 Long takes

till 2:36-at 2:37 run No. 375 quite sharp. Rapids not difficult but high waves twisting & curling so as to toss boat badly & the bow dive under & ship water.

At the lower Volcanic pile just above last turn to left (before big turn to Rt.) the Lava & beyond it the marble stands up very bold. Marble 500' long to 110' hi but has talus in patches under it. Just beyond this as river turns to Rt the talus grows very large with abrupt points breaking thro talus. One 30' span at extremem turn to Rt. Lava comes out bold in a point 800' ft. tunnel thro it brings on to good talus.

The Lava has run down river & shows on side cooled in fantastic shapes. Fans-; Screens &c &c.

At 2:45 we stop for photo 625 (493) up river after long left swing just before river turns to Rt again.

Lava all thro here run down the Canyon-;filling the breaks &c &c wash out again. Black spots in 493 are Lava Hot time then

Start again at 3:00 P.M.

at 3:01 run Rap. 376

" 3:04 " ". 377

All along here patches of lava-;mostly on Rt side of Canyon.

From tunnel point around the left swing beyond the wash-; stands vertical at 80 to 100 ft. at its base is a talus all the way the first 1 ms this talus is small but this can easily be supplied from slope above. River broad plenty of room. The talus increases rapidly as we go down till at end of the left swing it is 75' at 45 slope

H.W. 25 ft Photo 493

And at com. of next Rt turn the slope is a regular Mt.

Just before stretch turn to Rt side Can. 80' span.

All round this stretch and the Rt. turn and along the stretch before river turns to left same great talus with occasional points of lava jutting out & smaller talus under them-no trouble to here. All under cliffs, At 3:23 we come to turn to left.

Stop at 3:23 for photo 626 (494) up River m. up S70 or so west course from turn to left course.

Shows Lava & benched form of marble. Start at 3L33 and at 3:35 run Rap 378 huge rocks in center. We go left of it and shoot by, not an oar length off.

Stop at 3:42 above large side canon on N45 W.

Start 3:54 & run 379 at 3:55.

Lous rough curling waves.

& 380 at 4:00 P.M.

Stop at 4:06 for Photos 627 (495) 628 (496) 3/4 m. above sharp tirn to Rt below large side canyon.

Immense slopes bet. the jutting points all along this afterroon's run.

The general character of the canyon from the Volcano to our camp No. 93. is that of a line R.R. on good easy mt. slopes with the points of lava & some times marble jutting out close to the river and this has caused the river to wash away the talus but the points are not hi, not over 80 ft & as the river is wide and not very heavy fall-a permanent line can be built under these cliffs cheaply.

Some special points are noted as we passed them. From large side Canyon-;100 ft span-to this last Rt turn where we camp tonight-there is one of these lava cliffs & then broad high slopes. The alignment could not be more beautiful-only the one little short tunnel thro the lava point.

Start at 4:20 P.M. run long shallow rapid at 4:23 381. At 4:25 see flock of Mt. sheep on left bank 150 ft up. Stop and two men go after them. But failed to get any.

We go into Camp No. 93 opposite next sharp turn to Rt about 1 m. below the side canyon on Rt passed above.

All our meat is gone. We have plenty of good rice, flour, oatmeal, corn meal, peaches & coffee.

The Gen. character of Can. from Volcano-not so grand as that above. Volcano action very interesting -Lava must have filled up the canyon largely-deposits in crevises high up.

Hunt this up .

General scenery-not so grand as above but wonderful colors are dull-shapes & forms beautiful. Generally rounded as if more worn by some action & generally much lower.

Hunt this up.

Some beautiful scenery at points, as we turn bends of high points & curious profiles.

Blank p. 253

29 50 37

Clear all day.

At the sharp point to right at Camp 92 the red granite comes up to abt 25 ft. hi with the same "beeded" sand stone on top & over it, at the point quite a pile of lava on Rt side of River-on f (?) side where camp is another pile of lava all broken into basaltic shapes-as is the case at many places above here.

Start at 7:53 Run Rap. 382 at 7:55

Stop at 8:05 for Photos 629 (497) 630 (498) spoiled.

While we take Photos at 8:18 boats run Rap 383 Shallow gravel light & easy. Stop for us at 8:22. Start 9:18 after getting warm at fire Run Rap.

Run Rap. 384 at 9:20 shallow

385 " 9:23( gravel

386 " 9:33( rapids

387 " 9:40(

In many places the lava shows where it ran over gravel banks now 10' below high water mk. showing river was as low as now when lava ran.

One place at level of present low water at bottom of this very large basalt form.

Stop at 9:42 for Photos 631 (499) 632 (500) N.& S.

At large side Can. on left S.C. nearly

The granite drops out 1 m. below-fine bench on granite all the way. See Photo 497.

The sand & lime stone drop again forming 100 to 150' turns (1-30' water way-;) around Rt turn and down stretch.

River then turns left & in short dist. turns sharp to Rt-on this stretch the lava stands up vert. 30 to 40 ft. with gt. slope on top. Line on top of Lava. H.W. 20 ft. canyon widening.

Around this it turn runs back 1000 to 1500 0 ft in irregular benches.

This continues all round point to next stretch. See Photo 499 (631)

(No pages 357 or 358-

We start again at 10:05

& run Rap 388 at 10:08

" " 389 at 10:11

" " 390 at 10:15

Stop at 10:23 at large side canyon left. Run 391 from side Can on left (large) at 10:28 and stop at 10:30 for Photo 633 (501) down from large side Can. on left stretch 1 m. below N west.

Opposite this point the lava has run on gravel bed on top of granite &since then river has cut rho lava &20' into the granite.

(sketch)

I am almost frozen.

At next turn of river to left after large side can. on left-all round left bend marble low-broken back in low slope to top-good talus below.

1-60' span 1-20 span. At turn to Rt same lava bank rises with great slope on top-easy to thro off the lava at the points & get line as low as wished. After this turn the next small left & Rt turn & down the N.W. stretch the marble slopes back with many breaks & benches and a gen-flat slope with great talus at foot. Simple & easy.

We start at 10:53 and at

10:55 Run Rap. 392-shallow

11:00 Run Rap. 393-gravel

11:04 " ". 394-"

11:06 " ". 395-"

11:10 " ". 396-"

11:20 " ". 397-"

The canyon from the Volcano-to N.W. course just before lunch has been "all broke up" . It seems to me (see Dutton) to have been upheaval in many places by the Volcanic action, and to have been vastly more washed out than the districts above.

The marble does not stand in Vert. cliffs on its benches as above but is split up in all manner of forms & shapes as if stratified both vertically & horixontically tho the most of the breaks are vertical (see Dutton). (There were some more solid forms just after lunch but did not last long.)

Very remarkable the distance the lava has run down Canyon.

1-30'
4-20'
1-50'
1-10'
1-60'
Spans on the N.W. course & around left turn to Rt point.

These are the large openings, no acct. is taken of small water ways.

At point turn to Rt. marble comes out bold, Canyon narro w s 2-20' spans.

Talus in patches all round point. Very easy to make bank-River is wide. H.W. not over 15 ft. After point-Granite higher but large talus.

We land at 11:30 A.M. on Mt bank around this left turn at large side canyon on Rt where river turns to general S 10 W course. 12:30 P.M.

Photo 634 (502) 635 (503) at large side canyon on Rt.

Start after lunch at 1:10 P.M.and at 1:12 Run No. 398 shallow

1:14 " ". 399 heavy

1:15 " No. 400 "

1:16 401 light

all formed by the wash from large side can. where we lunched. I walked because I was cold & wet.

Stop at 1:17 & start again at 1:25 canyon since N.W. course the canyon is getting grander, the walls are rising and the walls are growing like those above Volcano-tho much more benched.

as river begins again to turn to left lava cliff 30' above talus 600 to 800 ft. long-easy to handle good line. 2-20 ft. spans.

Good talus (below lava bench) all round left turn. 1-40' span 1-10' span

This brings to large side canyon on Rt-course of S C apt N 45 W 100 ft. span.

Beyond this to Gen Rt turn of river the fine large talus continues-1 ms.

3-20'-water ways to Rt turn.

1-50'

1-20'

1-20'

1-20

1-20

1-30 at Rap. 304

These are the openings down N 20 W stretch to Photo. pt.

At 1:27 Run Rap 402 Brisk

" 1:30 " " 403 Light

(drawing)

At Run Rap 404 at 1:43 P.M. long gravel by side wash on Rt.

At 1:50 Run Rap. 405 gravel

" 1:53 stop for photos

636 (504) 637 (505) at end of S 20 W course where River begins to make turn for its SE course the 504 shows stretch.

Around Rt turn and down stretch to left turn (course S 20W) the section is thus.

(sketch)

this 50 to 60 ft talus is formed mostly of large broken rock. In places the 30' wall is gone & the bottom slope extends up to the top of 2d slope.

The alignment is so good that the 30' wall need not be cut except if wished for material.

At extreme of this stretch the wall is of lava-and one point just out in river & stands vertical 70' River very wide & this can be thrown into River chiefly & make clear alignment.

We start at 2:30 P.M.

Sec. m. below Photos 504, 505

(sketch)

at 2:30 Run Rap 406 long shoul(?)

From Photo (last) Pt. the canyon gets wider & wider and the hills break up in sec's like this-

(sketch)

At pt of Photos 304 & 505 wash thro lava 30' span.

Beyond this the lava just out same as above in one point-on around this left turn immense slopes severed with green as general sec.

1-20' span on oppo. page.

All these Gt slopes are under laid by S.R. slopes as shows by washes-the some may be deep debris .

I to 1 ms below another lava on top my "beeded" sandstone easy to thro it river (wide) if need be to straighten line at this turn we enter our SE course. 1-20' span/.

At 2:30 stop on left bank for Photos-oppo. very large side canyon on Rt.

638 (506) N.W. up 639 (507)

Start at 3:08

At 3:10 Run Rap. 407 *

At 3:16 " ".408

We stop at 3:20 P.M. at very large side canyon on left-which forms the first bad rapid we have had since the Volcano. This is full of immense boulders. We start at 3:30 and let down by (line) to nearly the end when some ugly boulders require a portage. Portage all made & boats kidded down by 4:30 P.M. Rap. 409.

At this point there is a fine spring of pure water & plenty of wood & being tired we go into CAMP No. 94.

One duck for supper.

*Large side canyon on Rt 80' span. This large side Can. on left (abt one mile below the last large one on Rt.) has forced out its boulders so far as to drive the river against the Rt bank and wash out all the talus & lower soft strata, but the wall left is of much broken up marble at an angle of abt. 25 from Vert. and can easily be handled, even tho it is necessary to widen river by using some nitro-glycerine on the boulders at mouth of Canyon.

High water abt. 15 ft.

River still falling and today shows the fall of the last rise to be 6 ft. This in this wide portion of the canyon indicates that we had in the narrow part of the canyon, where we were at its height-fully a 30ft. rise.

37 60 50

Clear.

Up this morning early breakfast at 6:00 A.M. Every one anxious to get to Diamond Creek as soon as possible.

Take Photos 640 (508) up, 641 (509) D from Camp No. 94 at large side canyon on left 1 or miles below last large side canyon on Rt.

We pack up & start at 7:30 A.M. and at 7:35 run Rap. 410

7:40 " " 411 a long mile incline falling 12 to 15 ft. & very swift.

At 7:45 stop for Photos on Rt. bank at mouth of next side canyon.

510 (642) 511 (643)D

(two sketches)

We start at 8:11 A.M. and

at 8:16 run Rap. 412 long

" 8:18 " " 413 gravel

" 8:20 " " 414 chutes

stop at 8:30 A.M. for photos-

644 (512) 645 (513)

m. above Rt turn 18 ms above D.Cr.

We start at 8:45 A.M. and at 8:46 run Rap. No. 415, stop at 8:50 to examine Rap. 416.

(Sketch)

The several side canyons that come in at this point have brought down great quantities of small boulders-down canyon form success. of rapids.

Just at turn large side Can. on Rt. 100 ft. span.

Start at 9:05 A.M. Stop at 9 :10 for Photos 646 (514) 647 (515) D in 1st bend to Rt. left side down stretch and round left turn (1-20' span) high talus slope under laid by stratified limestone & my beeded sandstone continues to point of Rt turn at point

3-10' opens to point Turn point at 9:45

Start at lower half of 416 at

9:32 & run 417 at 9:34

9:37 " 418 all long inclines

9:41 " 419 with rapid but

9:51 " 420 light waves.

And stop at 9:53 for Photo 648 (516)

The Cathedral-in converse of 2d turn 649 (517) opp. cent. of Cath. down from mouth of side canyon Rt.

After turning down the bends beyond the point noted at 18 ms. above D. Cr. the wall of canyon are more solid, and are formed just the same as those near Kanab Wash. This only lasts for a few miles and then the whole country breaks back again in very fantastic shapes-see Photos.

The great Cathedral was wonderful to me. Photo 516.

Can enlarge on this in colors all dull except green.

Around Rt bend and down next stretch to side canyon Rt. (60' span) same line talus-limestone-beeded sand stone on top rising higher-just below the side canyon the "beeded" st. s. up 80' & granite comes up 30 ft. line bet. Granite drops out in 400 to 500 ft. 60' span.

Start at 9:18 & at 9:20

Run rap 421 Stop to examine 422 & at 9:29 start & run it, a sudden drop-regular fall of 5 ft.

The same Mt. slope continues from last side canyon around light bend to Rt. down stretch & around bend to left * (at this bend lava on left) 1-30' span. At 9:35 run small Rap 422 down next stretch also-then another short turn to left & quick to Rt at this pt. sandstone cliffs rise from water 10-20'hi H W 25 ft. Lava side on Rt. Lava

This sand stone continues & soon gets above H. with sloping bench on top to large side canyon on Rt.50' span. Stop 9:53 From this side canyon on around left bend same sand stone bench with Mt. slope above it.

This continues down stretch and past way round turn to Rt. where granite again comes up-only 100 ft. Start at 11:05 & at 11:08 Run 423. Stop at 11:20 for Photos at lower and S.E. course

Photo 650 (518) 651(519) this last stretch coming down has a S E course .

Start at 11:45 and at 11:52 Run Rap. 424 and at 11:57 stop on Rt bank for lunch 12 Noon Photo 652 (520) 653(521) Abt 1 mile below last on level with river.

The bend before the two short ones turned us on our S course marked on blue print-S-9:35 A.M. (check this).

After turning right bend at end of S.E. stretch the point covered with lava but very broad talus below it.

From there on the beeded and stone rises to abt 75 ft but is not shere. Has slope of abt 35 fr. vert. at places it stands more vert. & has talus below it this continues down stretch & around left turn to pt. of Rt turn.

See Photos 520 & 21.

At 1:15 P.M. we stop at head of Rap. 486 formed with two others below it it by the wash fr. large side canyon on left. This has forced but river & washed away bank on Rt in this unusual way, just at turn to Rt above side Can. the solid granite walls begin. Photo while boats run No. 426 to save time at 1:27-522 (654) 523 (655)

On top the granite is my same beeded sand stone and an easy bench under it on the granite 2-30' spans. Boats stop at 1:31 & we are start at 1:37 and at 1:39 and all of them " 1:42 Run No. 427 very heavy 428 boat goes clear thro the waves & ships lots of water, in 427 turned twice round.

The granite walls are very ragged jutting out in points, the same as way above. The granite is very much shattered cracked in every direction & easily handled. It slopes from the water to the beeded sandstone at abt. 35 from vert.

1-50' span.

High water 25 ft. granite abt. 75', Sandstone on top 25 to 30 ft.

Stop at 2:00 P.M. at head of Rap. 429 from side wash on Rt 60 ft span to take Photos 656 (524) 657 (525) 424 supposed to be at down end of stretch of Jacksons Photo in Santa Fe window. At this side canyon on Rt. the regular form of inner gorge as sec. above stops-at & beyond granite much broken up. See later. Start at 2:27 Run Rap. 429 at 2:25 the largest highest boils I have seen, in short dist. but awful 3 & 4'. Beyond side canyon at photos granite same for m. to large side canyon on Rt.

At 2:35 run rap. "430 at this point granite same as before G.T. on top but the granite has a slope of abt. 45 as easy as any hille side.

Stop at 2:41 to look at Rap. 431 a long shallow one. Start at 2:47 & run it & run 432 at 2:55 and stop at 2:57 for Photo-658 (526) from pt at and of S.E. course. Start 3:13 P.M.

All round the Rt bend after above noted point granite slopes continue just the same till end of S.E. course. There it is much more broken up-(1-30' span) and slopes back very flat to foot of broken back too.

(List of photo supplies.)

[Titles of pictures 370 thru 391 with ommissions.]

blank p. 387

We run Rap. 433 at 3:18 and at 3:26 stop 1 m. above Diamond Cr. for Photo 527 (659) 528 (660)

1 m. above Diamond Cr. as on map. From turn to S. course the gen. character is same as past to the Creek (Diamond)-on map.-on left side.

See photo 528 (660).

Start at 3:42 and at 3:44 run rap. 434 brisk

3:46 " ".435 but

3:50 " ".436 easy

Land at 3:55 at mouth of what is put on Gov. map as Diamond Creek-I start up creek to examine-I can find no trace of wagon road or evidences of any one being there. I go back disappointed-will go to next creek & look.

Start 4:25 Run 436 which proves although clear of rocks one of the heaviest we have run fully loaded-but we dash thro it with a rush as we are running for our mail.

Land at 4:40

Photo way on west course 661 (529) 662 (520-[he must mean 530]

We start at 4:50 P.M.

All the way from Rapid 436 as far as we can see on this west course as far as we can see abt. 1 ms. the water is as smoothe as a lake. Just past Rap 436 the granite rises to its usual height almost abruptly.

From the large Cr. on left down west turn & stretch the granite walls are the same as those in upper granite gorge-but much broken up and general slope 40 from vert.

The breaking up is in fine pieces-making very easy. & cheap line to construct. 1-30' 1-40' span

At 5 P.M. we run small rapid 437 and at 5:05 we land on sand bar to examine the next rapid-as soon as we get to shore. I jump out-am surprised to find so large a creek in a few feet I see R K S written in large letters on the sand. I call out to man & they all run up in wild excitement give a cheer, and toes their hats on the ground & into the air for it is Diamond Creek in fact.

We soon discover a more convincing proof a trail & a woman's foot print.

All are happy & we go into Camp at once

CAMP No. 95

At last we have reached Diamond Creek The much sought for.

This book was sent by me, by mail, from Peach Springs, Arizona to Denver, Colorado.

For continuation of notes

See Book "D".

List of Dutton's distances.

Instaneous views-all spoilt.

Photo can No. 10 has been re-rolled cut from first end etc-

End of "C"